This month, our The Art of the Snack takes us to Washington DC where we took a moment with Chef Amy Brandwein a 5X James Beard Award Finalist who is the chef/owner of Centrolina which is known for its Italian dishes that utilize seasonal ingredients as well as having a number of cocktails to complete the experience! We wanted to know more about her background, how she came up with this restaurant that has an Osteria and Mercato, and We see more about upcoming events that you can enjoy there as we transition into the fall.
ATHLEISURE MAG: Chef Amy Brandwein, can you tell us about your culinary journey in terms of where you trained and kitchens that you worked in prior to Centrolina?
CHEF AMY BRANDWEIN: I began my career with Chef Roberto Donna at Galileo. I trained under four Italian chefs there for the next six years, and became the Executive Chef. I then opened Bebo Trattoria with Chef Donna as the Executive Chef (2.5 years) and then moved to The Ritz Carlton hotel to relaunch a restaurant there, Fyve Restaurant (2.5 years). I was hired by BLT Restaurant Group to start an Italian concept Casa Nonna, I opened the restaurant locations in DC and NY.
AM: As the chef/owner of Centrolina, what inspired you to open this restaurant?
CHEF AB: As the chef/owner of Centrolina, what inspired you to open this restaurant? I was inspired to create a dining experience that is a modern and respectful interpretation of authentic Italian cuisine and reflected my cooking and values - using local and fresh ingredients to create exciting, natural Italian dishes.
AM: For those that have yet to enjoy a meal, what is the cuisine that is offered and what are spices and ingredients that are indicative of this cuisine?
CHEF AB: Traditional Italian ingredients include herbs (basil, rosemary, sage), garlic, fruits, citrus, mushrooms, and an expansive variety of fish, game, and meats. Extra virgin olive oil is used extensively as well as parmigiano regiano. We incorporate umami in the form of nonnata di peace, anchovy, colatura.
AM: Before we delve into the offerings, what was the thought behind having an Osteria as well as a Mercato for Centrolina?
CHEF AB: Through the Mercato, I wanted to showcase the beautiful produce and ingredients which spark our creativity and form the basis for the menu at the Osteria. I wanted to highlight our local farmers and create an avenue of access customers to purchase and take home. To aid customers to cook healthy and put a quick meal together using our amazing ingredients - freshly made pasta, sauces, vegetables and sustainable fish. Many customers have told me they shop at the market and try to recreate their meal in the restaurant.
AM: For those that are coming in to dine, what is the ambiance of the restaurant?
CHEF AB: Comfortably modern, relaxing and invigorating. Seasonality is key to the dishes that are available and your menu changes daily.
AM: From a menu planning perspective, what's your process in approaching this?
CHEF AB: I purchase ingredients from our farmers availability every week and then create dishes based on what is on hand in our kitchen. I start with a daily sheet of ingredients, vegetables, fruit, fish and meat, and then I create a menu. We print our menus every day, which enables me to take advantage of new and different ingredients. We rely on seasonally available products. Oftentimes, our creativity takes ordinary ingredients and creating a new way of looking at it. Other times, taking a glut of produce from farmers and foragers to create an interesting dish helps them with their profitability.
AM: You've partnered with DC Urban Greens - why was this important to you and can you tell us a bit about them?
CHEF AB: It is very important to me to support people who are improving access to vegetables in underserved communities and using available land. Urban farming is an important way to help local economies and reduce carbon footprint. The vegetables are harvested nearby and sent right over to us, only 4.7 miles away - many times they are still warm from the sun. DC Urban Greens is led by Tobaris Robinson, a third generation farmer and a DC native. Tobaris owns The farm, which was started as a nonprofit in 2015. DCUG is located in Wards 7&8, an area which is underserved and in need of fresh produce. Tobaris is also connected to other nonprofit hunger groups, such as Dreaming Out Loud and local markets accepting SNAP.
AM: What are 3 appetizers that you suggest that we should order for lunch when we come in with friends and family?
CHEF AB: Verde Salad, Swordfish Carpaccio, and Melanzane (fried eggplant with honey).
AM: For lunch, what are 3 entrees that we should consider?
CHEF AB: Chicken Paillard, Tagliolini with Nduja Butter and Fried Egg, and Roasted Branzino with Confit of Potato and Tomato.
AM: What are 3 wines that you suggest to pair with your lunch?
CHEF AB: Cleto Chiarli Sparkling Rosé. It's fresh, crisp, and dry, and great for patio dining in the summer. Grillo Donna Fugata. It's a mineral, medium body, Sicilian white that pairs perfectly with our seafood and lunch pastas. Barbera Ca Viola is a medium body northern Italian red. Nice fruit and floral notes with hints of plumb and blackberry. It’s a great accompaniment to our home made pastas.
AM: For dinner, what are 3 appetizers that you suggest?
CHEF AB: Yellowtail Crudo with Carrot Yuzu, Crème Brûlée with Chanterelle Mushrooms, and Charred Napa Cabbage with Calabrian Chile.
AM: What are your suggestions for 3 entrees for dinner?
CHEF AB: Right now, Pici Artichoke Cacio e Pepe, Halibut with Corn and Peach, and Squab with Plums.
AM: What are 3 cocktails that we should try?
CHEF AB: Gin Basil Smash. It’s made with gin, home made basil simple syrup and fresh lemon. Fresh, citrusy, bright and herbaceous.
Chefs Negroni. A secret recipe for the perfect Negroni, simple and classic Italian derby.
Basil Hayden bourbon, freshly squeeze grapefruit, Campari and a splash of brown sugar. A great balance of tart, bitter and sweet for our bourbon lovers.
AM: From the Mercado, what are 3 items that are a must-have to purchase for those that have enjoyed eating their favorite dishes in the restaurant?
CHEF AB: Fresh Pasta, Nonnata di Pesce, and White Bolognese Ragu.
AM: The restaurant is a leader in the James Beard Award Smart Catch program. Can you tell us more about this program and why you wanted to be involved?
CHEF AB: Smart Catch is a program that provides information to Chefs on what fish is sustainable and then rates their purchasing on these standards. Invoices are submitted to the program for review and feedback. I wanted to ensure that we as Chefs are making responsible choices and to ensure the viability of our fish species. Chefs should be leading the way to drive consumers and our suppliers to rely on sustainable readily available seafood choices, for the continuation of species and to reduce the carbon footprint. My family spends summers on the Great Lakes so it has always been my priority to protect our waters and the habitat.