9LIST STORI3S | KAMIE CRAWFORD

Read the OCT ISSUE #106 of Athleisure Mag and see 9LIST STORI3S | Kamie Crawford in mag.

ROCK THIS FOR WARDROBE SHIFTS FOR SUMMER ADORNED LOOKS

Read the AUG ISSUE #104 of Athleisure Mag and see Rock This For Wardrobe Shifts For Summer Adorned Looks in mag.

PARKER THATCH | IRENE CHEN

Accessories are always that key component of your outfit that enhances elements of your look or your features. They are the pieces that become statements of conversation while also being fun ways to change up your style or reflect your personality in a cetain way! Whether you reach for them first to create your look or you finish it off with those touches, it's always something that we are on the hunt for! We have attended a number of editor previews, have enjoyed seeing items on the runway and beyond and of course, it's always fun scrolling our social feeds for great looks to add to our collections.

Parker Thatch is a luxury accessory brand that has been around since 2009 and we became aware of the brand a few years back. We love that its known for great handbag styles that are chic, has a number of fabrications that it offers, and has a great aesthetic that will never go out of style. When we had the chance to talk with Celebrity Costume Designer Allyson Fanger, she reminded us that not only is it a great handbag line, but they also have fun jewelry as well. After deep diving with the brand, we reached out to Irene Chen, Co-Founder of this line. We knew that she had a phenomenal background as a product developer at Donna Karan and we wanted to know more about how she got into the industry, how she came to designing this line with her husband Matt, and what we need to know about this brand as well as upcoming seasons!

ATHLEISURE MAG: I know your brand has been around for quite awhile, but I love how recently in the last few years how I have seen the videos that you do, the fun assortment, and how you engage with your customers as well as showing off how stylish you are as well. It’s so great to be connected to talk about the brand!

IRENE CHEN: Oh thank you! I’m really excited to chat with you as well as I really appreciate and love what you guys are doing with Athleisure Mag in terms of showing the importance of movement and fashion together. For me, it’s an important element of my life! I’m just so happy to speak with you.

IC: That is part of everything that I honestly so connect with and what we do you know. I feel that there are so many products out there these days and I think that the key is that there are so many people that they don’t feel great about themselves and they are stuck in their homes and they are not doing any kind of movement and I think about the connection of how do you get someone to get up and move so that they can feel good about it and make it really easy for you. I think that’s why I think that what you guys are doing is so cool.

AM: Well thank you!

Before we delve into talking about Parker Thatch and this great accessory brand, can you tell us about your background? You were at Donna Karan, that assortment had those elements and bones for that person who lived a full cycle from studio to office and everything in between. It would be great to know about your background and how you came to the fashion industry.

IC: It was totally one of those weirdo things! When I graduated from college, I went to UCLA, and then I cam back to San Francisco and then I just took a job like most people would out of college in consulting and I did that for about 2 years. Sometimes you look back at things that you did and wonder why you did certain things, but consulting really taught me and gave me the foundation for everything that we do like time management and all of that stuff. You wouldn’t be able to learn and that’s what I did. But then, 2 years after consulting, you decide on whether you will stay or go onto Business School in that transition and for me, I had this gnawing feeling as I didn’t want to do either of those things. I have always loved fashion personally and so I sent my resumes out and I think when you're young, you just have more courage sometimes. When I was consulting, you travel a lot and I read a magazine and they showed a picture of the President of Donna Karan and she was in a meeting and she was Asian and it was really interesting because at that time, there wasn’t a lot of representation and for people to see them in magazines and I was looking at this thinking that this was amazing and she was leading these people. For some reason, it dawned on me that I wanted to send her my resume and I had to figure out how I was going to do this.

You know, you do weird things so I pretended that I was sending a package and I called the mailroom as I knew I had to get the specific information in terms of the floor that she was on. So I sent my resume and they did call me and ask if I wanted to come in. It was this crazy thing and it happened in 2 seconds and I honestly leveraged my Excel Spreadsheet skills in terms of getting in the front door!

AM: Ha! We’ve all been there and same!

IC: Slowly but surely, I worked my way through and I really loved working with product. At the end of the day, I worked there a very long time. I got to learn how to develop product and all aspects of the business. It was an exciting time for me actually.

AM: I have such a respect for product developers as my aunt was one for a number of major brands. It’s such an amazing way to extend a brand especially when you get into licensing and other things like that so I think that it is so cool.

What led you to decide to go off on your own and to create Parker Thatch?

IC: Well it’s so funny because I was living in New York and I met my husband Matt who is my husband now. I think it was just close to the dot com time when we met and I was very burnt out with what I did and I was traveling almost every day of my life for a number of years and I was just really exhausted. We met and his mother got sick and I said, “why don’t we just go to Australia,” because that’s where his parents were. So we spent almost a year there and we thought that maybe we could do something on our own. So that’s what started us tinkering with businesses in the year 2000. It has been crazy! I think that when we started that we were a little too early so no one understood it and now it’s like we could have done x, y, and z under this company given now how the business works. We had to survive and we said let’s just do stationary because people kept saying that they loved our paper and they didn’t understand the tech version of it.

So they just wanted to buy the paper. So that’s how we started! We started our company at my parent’s basement in the room that I grew up in.

AM: Well I love a good piece of stationary.

IC: So stationary turned into home and then I think in about 2009, Matt had an idea because we were doing a lot of customizing. He said, “I think that we could customize on cotton.” Can you think of something we can do on cotton. I told him it would be great to have a tote bag and that’s how it happened. I started with the bag at my dry cleaners. It’s the craziest story.

AM: Ok, I love that story and I love when people get scrappy to figure out how to take their vision and bring it to life and to figure it out! What a good synergy it was for you to find her because when you were saying this I thought, “well just because you can hem a pant, doesn’t mean you can make a bag!”

IC: We wondered what kind of materials we could use because we had no money to do any of this stuff so then I was like, “I love canvas and we can cut 2 strips of leather.” So the bags were made from canvas that we bought at Joann Fabrics and 2 strips of leather that Matt cut and grommeted on and that’s how it came about. Then we did these stripes with your monogram on it and stripes with your monogram on it and at that time, it was all about magazine and gift guides. So we sent them out and people loved them and it was insane!

AM: That is incredible!

What has drawn me to your brand as I have always been aware of it from a handbag assortment as opposed to your jewelry, is when I was talking with Celebrity Costume Designer Allyson Fanger for our MAY ISSUE #101 -

IC: She’s the best, I love her!

AM: It was amazing to be able to chat with her as I have loved the work that she has done in her career and the way that she is able to tell story the looks of the character whether alone or when they are interacting with others.

IC: How cool is she?

AM: She is so cool -

IC: She is so damn cool!

AM: The whole time I’m looking at her and all of her jewelry and in addition to my role as the Co-Founder/Creative + Style Dir. of Athleisure Mag, I’m also a Fashion Stylist and accessories are really my thing and it’s what I love utilizing as statement pieces when I am putting looks together.

So when she was talking about pieces she loves, she was pointing to her ring and said it was from Parker Thatch. I was surprised because I knew of your brand, but didn’t know that you made jewelry and she’s wearing it and we have a gab session for like 5 mins and I knew then that I would reach out to connect with you!

IC: Oh my God, I love that and she’s just so great! She’s such a great connector and she’s such a generous person when it comes to expanding to smaller designers and she’s just a great human being.

AM: In looking at the line again closely, I enjoy the clean aesthetic of what the brand is and I also love as you have mentioned that you work with your husband on this line and Athleisure Mag is also co-founded by a couple, my boyfriend and I.

IC: No way! I love it!

AM: We have a great flow. So what is your advice to people who are looking to start a venture whether it’s your significant other, a best friend, or a sister because when you have these relationships especially when you’re first starting out to make a business, it’s always good to keep some things in mind. So what is your advice?

IC: My biggest advice honestly, and I don’t know if you feel the same way, but really having respect for each other and the key I think fortuitously is to be on the same channel in terms of look and feel. The tone of voice – that is already naturally there and I don’t know if you feel that way.

AM: Yup!

IC: So that made it easy. But I think that it is truly respect and we each have skill sets that the other doesn’t have and we really lean on each other for those and I think that it’s also about growing up. It’s about getting away from always being right and becoming more vulnerable with yourself and saying, you know, that’s not my strength.

Exactly! I think that that is about building a team. We can’t be good at everything and I think a lot of time when you start a business, you think I can do everything – but you really can’t and it’s humbling yourself and respecting the other person. It’s like what you said, this is your lane and not mine and it’s worked for a very long time – we’re still married, we have 2 kids, and we’re still working!

AM: Ok, that’s amazing! Because times get hard sometimes!

IC: Haha don’t get it wrong! We still fight over stuff haha!

You know, when you make your own business, there are a lot reasons why you got to where you did and there is a lot of making the donuts and at the same time, it’s a lot of fun! Making your own business is super hard! The key is just moving forward every single day. There will be days where you feel like you can’t do it anymore and that you just have to put one foot in front of the other.

AM: 100% haha there are times you have to be your own hype person and just keep going!

IC: You just have to get it together and just move! That’s the key!

AM: If you’re able to still do things when the mountains continue to grow ahead of you and you don’t know how you would even think to climb it because there is no way to hold on and you find yourself in an

American Gladiator situation you know that you’re going to keep giving it your all!

IC: It really is! It’s a mindset and I think that that is the key. You have to do hard things and sometimes those challenges let you see that you can do way more than what you believe you can do. We sometimes hold ourselves back from what we can do.

I think that it’s fascinating that you said all that because for the last 6 years I have been focused on getting fit and learning about a lot of that. There is this whole concept of Zone 2 training which is about running slow actually makes you go faster. I think that that concept, I really take to heart. That's exactly what you are saying. Sometimes you need to just chill out. When you do that, I think that it makes things go much faster and smoother.

I love the fact that you do that because you’re able to keep moving! Just like you said, it's all about moving forward! That is truly what it is to be focused, to move, and to not be distracted. You want to do everything, but you can’t!

AM: 100% and that’s a huge lesson that you learn and it humbles you ha!

For someone who is not familiar with Parker Thatch, how would you describe this brand to someone who is just coming into it?

IC: Definitely this brand is all about what we say daily, it’s about ease and elegance and I really believe that. It’s about how do I make a product for you that is easy to put on and that you feel great! It’s not about being fussy and it’s always about one beautiful piece that you put on and that’s why I love jewelry. I love a great white shirt and a pair of jeans and then stack up that necklace and you look 100% and that takes 5 seconds. I think that for me, that was very important for that woman that sometimes feel stuck – how do I get you to just get out of the house? Like, you need to feel good to get that motivation so that you can have a good day! It’s not going to be everyday that you may feel that way, but I want to make products that will help you get there!

AM: In looking at the assortment, I love the Charlie bag which is amazing, the Cross Your Heart Sling is another one and personally, I’m not someone who tends to gravitate towards that style, but when I’m styling on set, I actually do use that style as it’s a great way for me to have what I need to set my outfits without running back to our set up since we sometimes take over an entire building or space. So being able to have my jewelry and everything on me as we transition from one look to the next and knowing its secure is how came to embracing slings initially.

What would you say are 3 must haves whether it be in handbags or your jewelry that people should be adding to their closets or to begin establishing their Parker Thatch collections?

IC: I love that! For sure, if you’re not a sling bag person, it’s this weird bag that when you want to be hands free and it’s not just a nylon sling bag. You can also make it into a clutch which is really great for travel. The Charlie bag for sure! It’s our newest bag. It hits all the points. It zips, it’s slouchy, it’s cool, and I just wanted to create a bag that when you feel you’re in those cool jeans that you love you feel it all together. You know, when you look at a surfer or a skateboarder, I’m always inspired by them. Even when they’re just carrying their skateboard, I’m always like, “damn, you look so cool!”

AM: It comes off so easy and effortless.

IC: Yeah and the way that they walk, there’s such a slouch to what they do and that’s how I conceptualized it. It took awhile to get that bag with its material to have that slouch and we had to keep testing it to get it there. I think that when you carry it, it kind of makes you feel like that. So I think that that bag is a fantastic bag! Then for me personally, the Jane bag again, it’s all about slouchiness for me! That bag again is great for travel and if you want to dump all of your commuter stuff in it, it’s a great bag!

So those three bags, I personally use them every day. It’s kind of a bag within a bag that’s within a bag. I do love that!

Now jewelry wise, for sure the Long Links Necklace. The huge Manifestation Crystal is a really popular thing and again, I love it when you can hang it. That Long Links Necklace looks amazing when you do that and again, for me it is about the slouchiness. You can make it long and you can make it short and it has this sexiness when you wear it with an open shirt and I love that. So for me, that’s what I am doing every day.

AM: What is your process in terms of adding styles to the brand or when you are thinking about colorways? Sometimes when you are looking at various brand the assortment is so vast and although there are a lot of options, it can also generate a lot of noise when it is not curated, edited, or rotated so that pieces can stand out.

IC: Definitely, it’s interesting because most of our stuff is pretty evergreen so we will always bring in the colors and I always feel like that. I’m a practical human. If I am going to buy an expensive big item, I’m thinking about if I am going to be using this every day. That’s important to me. When we bring in the colors, I’m always thinking about the little things that you can bring into your bag when you’re looking to go out. We kind of move a little bit with the seasons. Our best sellers are always the Caramel Suede, the tan colors, and so we’re always keeping that as the foundation. Camo is a big thing for me and it’s really interesting. When we first put it out there I was like ok and it’s great to see how our camo with the pink and red stripe has really become a big thing for us.

AM: It’s cute.

IC: Yeah and it’s such a great bag to travel with and a great bag to work with.

AM: Where do you go for inspiration? Even though the line has those evergreen elements in terms of your assortment, I’m sure that you’re still adding things here and there or looking at trend reports, Pantones, etc.

IC: You know, I always say that when you look at the products, for me the designs that we do are always a little familiar to you. But then the inspirations and feel is about putting a little something to it. So is it a red handle versus a brown one?

Our bags are familiar and yet there is something not familiar about it? That’s what makes me want to buy things these days because there are so many things that are out there like the fanny pack which is our sling bag. It is a fanny pack which is familiar, but lets do it in a beautiful leather and let’s use a strap and put in a pop of color so that your personality comes forward. I think that that is my inspiration and I am a practical person so that is what I draw from.

AM: I love the straps!

IC: They are so fun!

AM: I like that you can customize it and make it your own a little bit. Going back to the Sling Bag it’s a style that generally would not be one that I would personally gravitate to.

IC: I know!

AM: But then you hit IG, and I’m looking at how it’s larger than a traditional sling bag and I’m like, “why not change out the one I use on set and bring that in?” or I was just at Governors Ball and I did have a sling mini backpack that I brought, I would have preferred to have this body style and of course, I have styled a number of shoots where I have had sling bags in them. Then once you get to thinking about an accessory paired with my moto jacket you start to see how it can be worn personally. To your point, it’s about the familiar with these tones that have a little something nuanced. I do love a good slouchy bag style and years ago, there were so many and now not so much. There are versions that are oversized but that structure of the slouch that gives that cool girl style is not always there it’s just large. So a bag like XL Jane that is in my wheel house!

IC: It's putting your vision on it where the familiar meets the unfamiliar! That’s what takes it to the next level and you’re like, I need that! The familiar lets you connect with that memory and then the part that isn’t you say hmm there’s something there and together it becomes something that you love – it’s a little link and a little extra!

AM: It’s a little something. I love that and I love visual texture. Now there is a place I love visual texture. Now there is a place for something that is completely new, but then you have to think about it and see how it sits in your life. I knew that these pieces felt familiar while being presented differently. I knew when I looked at the colorways and the fabrications that I would wear a good portion of them and in some cases it reminded me of a bag from many years ago that I either wanted but couldn’t get, or had been part of my collection and had been lost to time, or would just be a silhouette that would be in a primary rotation.

IC: Oh thank you!

AM: Yeah and then you think about how versatile it can be with my leggings, jeans, maxi dresses, etc. I love visual mapping outfits because I love collecting pieces but there is a tight edit of my go-to’s that are with me when I’m out and about, at a meeting, etc. Those are the pieces that you live out of. So I like the classic and effortless components with that little bite so that it’s not too sweet. I’m not a fan of anything personally that is too sweet.

IC: Me neither! That’s so funny! I’m not a frilly person, but I will wear a shirt with a puffy sleeve, but then I have to put it with a pair of jeans.

AM: Same. I had a fun summer boho puffy sleeved maxi dress in black and it felt a little sweet, but of course, I paired it with my Caviar Beaded Lagos and a pair of Adidas Superstars with my Carrera’s to edge it up.

IC: You always have to juxtapose it. Even when we first started with that tote bag, we put leather straps on it and then a monogram and it took a canvas bag to something that was different. It’s fun!

AM: Have you guys done collaborations or are you working on any?

IC: We’re starting to do more of them. We just did one with Larissa Mills, she has a great story. She's a mom in Boston who has this insane following on Tiktok and Instagram and she has amazing style. She has collaborated with everybody like the Gap and for some reason, we really connected and we just did this cool little envelope clutch and we’re looking to do more of that and I just feel that I really love to meet those who share the same sense of sensibility and it can be any product! It’s about making that familiar product and making it a little bit extra!

AM: What will Fall and Holiday look like – or anything that you can share on that front.front.

IC: Yeah, Fall and Holiday is really all about burgundy tones, dark espressos, navy, and a lot of suedes. The Charlie bag has done really well for us and we want to bring more of that slouch in there with the jewel tones. We are doing textures like basketweave and hair – I love hair. So I love a cheetah, I love a great zebra print, and also playing with hot pink hair and yellow hair! That’s really fun on straps! So taking fun stuff and putting it on a strap so you’re not married to hot pink on the main part of the bag. But you can bring that texture in. A lot of croc and shiny things – like little tiny shiny things for Holiday!

AM: Oh that’s exciting! I can’t wait for that to come out!

IC: We’re really excited about that and it’s just really yummy. I love a burgundy and I really love an oxblood which is perfect for fall.

AM: You can never have enough oxblood. I love it when you talk about leather accessories, I love that color when you talk about a gel mani – it’s so rich and although for me it’s like a new neutral, it’s really great in the Fall!

You know, there are a number of brands that have lived in the handbag portion of the accessory category and they are now branching out into travel and travel specific pieces.

IC: Yeah.

AM: Is that something that you envision for the brand?

IC: Yes! That Charlie bag that we just introduced, we just did it in an XL and I tested it by taking it to Iceland and it was awesome! We are going to do more of that. We’re also working on a really good slouchy tote and again, over the shoulder, really slouchy, beautiful leathers and I can’t wait for that!

AM: Oh that sounds amazing and I can’t wait to check it out.

IC: It’s a great bag and it’s going to be one of those things that you’ll want to drag it everywhere! I want people to live in these bags! Also understand that it’s ok for it to get messy. People get so crazy when they spill on it and I’m like, “dude, that’s life man!” You should be proud of that, that means that you are moving and yeah it got dirty. If there is a drop of wine on that, that’s life!

We had the great honor of meeting 4X Team USA Olympic Beach Volleyball Medalist Kerry Walsh Jennings (G3, B1) and I think that she is just so bad ass! I remember when she was pregnant and she won that Gold medal and I was like, damn, she is so badass! So she came in and she had our sling bag on and she was like yeah but I spilled on it and I feel awful and I was like that’s awesome. She carries it everyday and she’s so tall and that’s life and I loved it! It should be your companion and that is what we want to strive for and we want you to grab it and know that it feels good and it does what it needs to for you.

IG @parkerthatch

PHOTOS COURTESY | Parker Thatch

Read the JUL ISSUE #103 of Athleisure Mag and see PARKER THATCH | Irene Chen in mag.

BEHIND THE SEAMS | WALTER MENDEZ

This month's cover has been someone that we have watched excitedly over the past years. He hit our radar in 2012/2013 and we were immediately struck by his design aesthetic that ensures that you are the conversation starter and statement in whatever room you occupy! From the craftsmanship, the visual texture, and passion of the designer, Walter Mendez and his Walter Mendez Atelier have been worn by celebrities, iconic entertainers, socialites, and more.

When it comes to designing, it's about creating a world and one that continues to evolve from season to season. We wanted to know more about how he got his start, his creative process, his approach to his RTW, couture, bridal and bespoke; his recent The Golden Cage Exhibition held at The Beverly Hills Hotel, what he's working on, and how he takes time for himself.

ATHLEISURE MAG: I have loved your work since 2012/2013 and certainly no later than 2014! So the fact that we’re chatting right now is definitely a moment!

WALTER MENDEZ: Oh wow, you’ve literally seen the journey and I am honored that you have been aware of my brand for that long! I think that everything that I say in terms of what this collection means to me, you’ll be able to understand a little bit more. So that’s really beautiful, so thank you!

AM: Well thank you! I’m the Co-Founder/Creative + Style Dir of Athleisure Mag as well as being a fashion stylist, so I have followed your work on Instagram and those who have worn your pieces. Your design aesthetic, your approach to bodies whether they are male or female is so amazing. I grew up in a family of designers and product designers. My mom was a couture designer and so I have such an appreciation for you and the space. So I know our readers are going to love it, but I want to tell you thank you for creating this and things that I have looked at when I was in an airport on my way to wherever or when I’m scrolling as I go about my day – the pieces truly transport me away to somewhere else and it’s a vibe! So I thank you for what you have done!

WM: Well thank you, it truly is appreciated. There are moments like yesterday when I was posting and last night I was going through photos it made me say wow. I’m genuinely so proud about what I have accomplished, of my craftsmanship, my aesthetic, my voice as a designer and I’m just so proud of what I know and what I feel that I represent. And not just what I represent to my family, but so many other people out there.

AM: When did you fall in love with fashion?

WM: I would have to say that falling in love with fashion really started early on. I remember being probably 4 or 5 and I just remember putting on my favorite jacket and what was so surreal to me in that memory is that feeling of that jacket. I just felt so cool and the minute that I would put that jacket on I felt that I was owning that room. I remember feeling that feeling and I knew that that was the essence that I wanted to capture in my designs. It was the essence that I want my clients to feel because it’s such a beautiful feeling. I’m sure that you can relate. You have an outfit where you can say, “I know I slay.”

AM: Oh yeah!

WM: I know that when I walk into a room, this outfit shows that I mean business. That feeling, that is the essence of my brand and the essence that I want to give every client of mine. That’s priceless. The energy that you’re able to control your entire day – when you feel good, you’re walking and you’re able to walk to the beat of your own drum, people notice. You attract a different experience.

AM: At what point did you realize that you wanted to be a fashion designer and then that you wanted to create your own namesake collection?

WM: I think that I always played with the idea of being a fashion designer and as someone growing up who didn’t have much, I found myself kind of wanting more. Looking back, I see the beauty in it and I always look at the fact that having nothing allowed me to dream of everything.

You know, we all have the things that spark our interest. We all have our things that we gravitate towards on a level of beauty. Because I’m just that type of person who loves that, I thought, “ok, I may not be able to afford it, and I may not be able to go out and get it, so I’m going to create it.” That’s really where my creativity flourished and I found myself being challenged. I remember my first dresses. I honestly barely only had one sewing class.

But I knew I wanted to play with fabrics and I knew I wanted to play with textures and shapes. So how those dresses came together, I don’t know, but they came together and I saw the vision and the look. It was just so beautiful to see my journey evolve.

AM: I love that!

How do you describe or define your design aesthetic?

WM: My design aesthetic in terms of modern day context, I feel that I design for the main character. For me, if I am dressing you, I’m dressing you to be the star. If you are coming to me, you are going to walk into that event and you are going to own the room. If you want to go to an event and kind of be low key -

AM: Then don’t wear your designs!

WM: Ha ha – I want to give you that full fantasy moment from the minute that you walk into the room and for everyone to want to know you, want to talk to you, give you compliments and for them to be in love with your essence. That is what I give my clients because I know the power and the importance of feeling good and looking good. It’s really about learning to get the most out of a special event. That’s really what it is. Everyone that comes to me, it’s for a special event. I know that the level of production, the level of experience that you’re going to – it’s elevated and more than your average day. I know that I can elevate it to another level.

AM: I will say that there are times when I am watching a red carpet or a music video, there is an ethereal quality whether you’ve designed something that is closer to the body or has various dimensions to it, I can tell when it is one of your pieces that I am looking at. I know it before the credit has been rolled or stated. You can just tell.

WM: Yes!

AM: It’s amazing, it’s absolutely stunning.

What was your feeling when you launched your first brick-and-mortar store? What did that feel like as it is such a huge accomplishment.

WM: It was such a beautiful feeling because for me, I felt that it gave me a home. It was such a beautiful feeling to feel that I have something that is mine and I am focusing on a legacy. Even looking back, in this moment now, I look back at that Atelier – it was beautiful. I’m so proud of it.

Despite being in a different situation than I am now with the level of clientele obviously, my world knowledge, my fashion knowledge – I literally have always tried to make the most out of everything that I have. That is always the advice that I have to myself. It’s about being creative and how do I take it to the next level? How do I challenge myself?

AM: How do you get inspired for each season the you create or for that which is bespoke? Where do you start pulling from?

WM: When I design the collections, I always pull from almost a point of my own personal journey of where I am in that time. So, I always have a lot of self reflection. So what’s my outlook in life, what am I excited about, what intrigues me, what fantasy world would I want to go to next? It’s all a form of a little bit of manifestation and a little bit of a form of intrigue/interest. Like for example, prior to the Golden Cage, I did the Odyssey Collection. For me, I looked at it and at that time, I had traveled the world and I had seen so many beautiful places and it was like, what’s next? So it was the idea of playing with a bit of an outer space world evolved. I started being inspired by different stars, three dimensional Saturn rings, the idea evolved from that and I wanted it to feel modern and sleek and sophisticated – but for it to still have this element of wonder.

That led me to The Golden Cage where I felt that I could do an artistic reflection of my journey. I wanted it to be a love letter to the younger me.

AM: Do you ever look at a fabric – sometimes from a stylist perspective, I see a fabric, a handbag etc and that notion gets stuck in my head and I think about how I can style around that idea for a look or series of looks for an editorial. Have you ever had a nagging item that eventually found its way to being part of a beautiful collection?

WM: Yes and that happens very often! It happens all of the time. Sometimes it can be a physical item that I end up using a prop or it can be a particular movie or music or a certain film. Anything that is able to evoke emotion in me can be used as a form of inspiration. For me, it is so important to capture that essence and then it just evolved. It evolves when you put the different pieces together, it evolves into the next level. For me, it’s like how does this go into a movie – let me create the characters – let me create the story of how can I make all of these dresses that are very much so different but are still part of the same story.

I’m often my very own movie producer, casting director, costume designer, and then it all just makes sense in my head.

AM: You have created this brand that is so coveted by so many people. It’s luxury, it’s on the red carpets, in divas’ residencies, it’s on celebrities, socialites – what does it mean to you to have that kind of impact with the people that want to wear your work and want you to be part of their story when it’s their moment?

WM: It’s truly surreal, it’s a blessing, it’s a privilege. I love what I do and I am so proud of what I do, but I am also blessed that the people that believe in me are able to not just want to wear me, but to be part of my story! I understand that every single client when they are coming to me whether it's a red carpet, an event, a gala whatever it is – I know that you are coming to me because it’s a special moment. The fact that you are choosing your special moment to share it with me and my designs, that to me just speaks volumes.

AM: Obviously you’re known for your RTW collections, couture gowns, and bridal. I love that you were quoted saying that, “fashion was meant to be custom made.” I love that and agree it is such a privilege to have something made with me in mind. Tailoring is always key. Why should people understand this and the importance of tailoring, investment pieces as opposed to spending on items that are not constructed with us in mind and in many ways are throw away.

WM: Yeah, it’s important for me to communicate the fact that fashion is meant to be custom. Because I feel like it is almost a fogotten fact. When you think about history, traditionally, royalty – everything was custom made.

Even if you weren’t royalty, you would get custom made because things weren’t mass produced. The challenge with mass production is that we all have different body types. I mean as a person, one arm is different than another. We are custom built as people. We have individual stories and we have individual needs. So even the girls that are the same weight size – one can have a little bit of a shorter torso, one can have a longer torso -

AM: One boob is bigger than the other.

WM: Yeah there are so many details that are just custom to your body. So when something is mass produced, they’re trying to find the middle ground. They’re looking at hopefully the most amount of people that can buy it. So if you’re off slightly by any way, it’s never going to fit. There is nothing more important than a tailored piece for you.

AM: One of the things that I was talking about at the beginning – I’ve always been a fan of your social media. I love how it’s about you, your line, your collection. I love seeing you with Olivier Rousteing, Creative Director of Balmain, and your account reflects such a vibe of authenticity, this world of luxury, globetrotting, etc. How important is your social media to your brand to showcase to those that are your clients, potential future clients, friends, or people who are simply conduits that can refer others to you?

WM: I like my social media, because to me it’s more than ever, I want to be a beacon of representation for my people. I love sharing all of these experiences because I want to show other people who maybe are from my same background, same challenges, or just not your perfect typical white picket fence All American life – there are people like us in those spaces. These spaces are for all of us and I always tell my family, especially my cousins, and my friends that my success is your success. I want to prove to you all – people like us that we can be in these spaces as well. I think that some of is is being done for the inner me. I literally grew up thinking that someone like me a POC would be in these spaces.

Growing up for me, every brown person that I knew, they weren’t in a place of status or those positions. So growing up for me, there was a period of time where I wondered, “can I not get there?” Is that not how it works? More than ever, I want to highlight to people that I want to show them that we can get there. You can get there and you can do it wherever you want and you have to believe in yourself. We have to start somewhere.

AM: If you don’t see it, it can be hard to visualize for some people when they don’t have a road map. You do have to start somewhere. You have to put in the work and you can have this lovely life.

WM: Also, besides representation, in addition to my skin color, I also look at all of the queer youth to show people in the LGBTQIA community that there are people in positions of status, in positions of wealth and in environments of wealth. We don’t see that enough and I want to show people that everything that makes you, you can make it into what makes you strongest to what makes your career and to be successful at it is what is truly a blessing!

AM: Tell me about your fashion exhibition at The Beverly Hills Hotel. It looked stunning as I have seen the pictures as well as coverage on this. Why did you want to do this, what was the idea behind it, and how long did it take you to do as it was like a Met Gala Costume Institute’s Exhibition. (Editor’s Note: The Met Gala is the first Monday in May and is the Oscars for fashion. It launched in 1948 and was the brain child of fashion publicist Elanor Lambert who played a key role in launching NYFW. Although it has evolved since it’s inception, it's current iteration includes a red carpet with noted celebs dresses by designers that attend this event in a specific theme. The Met Gala is a charity and fundraiser for The Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute. The Gala has traditionally been timed to mark the opening of its annual fashion exhibition. For 2024, the Met Gala’s dress code was The Garden of Time and the exhibit for this year is Sleeping Beauties: Reawakening Fashion and can be seen at the Museum and features 250 rare items from the Costume Institute’s permanent collection. The exhibit spans over 400 years of fashion history and includes Schiaparelli, Dior, Givenchy, etc. This year’s exhibit will include 3 main zones – Land, Sea, and Sky which pays tribute to the natural world).

WM: So the reason why The Beverly Hills Hotel was the place that I wanted to have that moment was that I have always been inspired by the 1957 Cadillac ad that was shot at The Beverly Hills entrance. I’m sure you know what I am talking about based on that reaction.

I have always seen that photo as such a glamorous moment in life. I have always been allured by it. I have always gravitated towards it so when it came to creating and curating an event for my next collection, I felt that I would use that moment of inspiration. I need to give my people that moment in a modern day life. To be able to be someone who looks up to the entire Metropolitan Museum and what they represent, an event like the Met Gala, I needed to make sure that whatever I deliver was up to that level because I know that I can. I know that I can, I know that I deserve it, and I know that my clothing is worthy of it. I know that my clothing is meant to be in those spaces because I see my work as my art and I know that what I can do, nobody else can do. I am truly and authentically me in my essence and in my work. It’s a mixture of me being so proud of my work and me being educated and making sure that what is being presented is not only going to impress me, my family, and my friends, but is also going to impress my clients, my peers, and anyone in the fashion industry. Because to me, it's such an honor to be able to get the feedback from people that know what they are talking about to be like, “wow, I’m impressed.”

AM: It was stunning to see it. What did it feel like to be in the room with everyone from your friends, family, clients, etc. to toast you like that as well as this body of work?

WM: It felt like the different dimensions of my spirit were coming together and being acknowledged. Like I was being celebrated for my creativity while also being comfortable in my skin, in my queerness, in my creativity, in my aura while celebrating my family and being a beacon of light for everyone that has not only paved the way for me to be there but also paved the way for people who will walk after me. To me, I want to be that leading force and to show people, if I can do it, you can do it. You just have to believe in it and you have to work hard. You have to be consistent because this just doesn’t happen overnight.

That’s why I am so appreciative that you love and are aware of my journey because you have seen the elevation of my work, my craft, and my dedication.

AM: And consistency.

WM: Yeah, you have to wake up everyday and give it your best. I always believe that it doesn’t matter how fast you are moving, as long as you never stop moving. As long as you can say that you are better than you were yesterday, that is all that matters.

AM: Absolutely – 100%!

What is the next project that you’re going to be working on that we should keep an eye out for?

WM: That’s a hard one! There is a lot going on, but I do like to be mysterious as I always like to surprise people. Even for this event when I was sending out the invites, it was “you are invited to the Walter Experience.” So many people like my close friends, were asking what it was, what it meant and I told them, it’s a Walter Experience – when you get there, you will know! I wanted it to be an experience and a moment where I could show me and the way that I process things and it’s such a complex way. Even when I was working on the set design with the team and Butterfly Floral, I was like, “it has to be bigger, it has to be grander.” They were trying to process it and asked me if I was sure. They wondered if I wanted things so giant.

AM: Yes!

WM: And I was like, “YES!” It is important for me to have people to be able to look up because that is a moment that for me, reminds me of my childhood. Always feeling like I was looking up and having that sense of wonder and exploration. Because this was a love letter to my inner me, I had to give that perspective.

AM: I’m sure you’re coming to the end on working SS25 in terms of the collection side. Are you going to be showing here in NY, are you going to be showing in LA – what can you tell us about that?

WM: I can definitely tell you that that is what we are in talks on with the team. It’s really amazing to see not just the response here in the States, but also the international response from other fashion capitals of the world. To hear them tell me that they love what I do and that they would like us to show there and to be part of their calendar for Fashion Week. It’s so surreal because every season that I come out, I am so excited to see the Fashion Weeks around the world and to have them now that these companies and production companies now want me to be part of those Fashion Week calendars it’s a blessing! It just makes me so happy because those moments it's so much but in a blessing! It just makes me so happy because those moments it's so much but in those times I come alive! I know that I am meant to do that. Something comes over me and I just get comfortable in those spaces.

The fact that I am able to do what I love and be authentically me and then be able to produce art that is so widely celebrated, it’s such a beautiful feeling.

AM: You have worked on so many dresses so I know this will sound difficult. Are there 3 that stick out in your head? Whether it’s the dresses themselves or a moment that generated making them, or the clients themselves? Are there 3 moments/dresses/looks in your career where you were like, yes this is what I really love?

WM: Yes there are 3 and yes it is very hard to narrow it down to that. I’ll pick 3 that have just felt like full circle moments for me and have just touched me to my core. Because to me, now I am at a position where it’s very important for me to always celebrate that child and celebrate that inner child that dared to dream because that’s literally where it all started.

I would say that one moment that was really special was the first time that I dressed Beyoncé (Mufasa: The Lion King, Homecoming: A Film by Beyoncé, Renaissance: A Film by Beyoncé) as it happened on my birthday. I just remember sitting there thinking that Queen B just redefined my brand! I will forever remember not just my birthday, but the first time that I got to dress her. It was a beautiful moment because the first that that I got to dress her, it was the first reveal post twins. All eyes were on her and everyone was watching. So to be able to design a piece for her that not only made her comfortable but also made her look absolutely stunning, it was a huge moment where all eyes were on her and to be part of that was just amazing and it was a blessing. So that would be one of my absolute favorites.

Another favorite piece that I absolutely loved was working with Mariah Carey (Precious, The Butler, Girls Trip) for her Vegas Residency and to see my gown on all of the billboards all over Vegas and even here in LA the billboards promoting her. That residency in Vegas was such a surreal moment because I had a flashback to the younger me when I was in 7th grade in my ESL class because English is my second language. It hit me because I literally picked Hero by Mariah Carey and that was the song that I chose to translate to present it to the class!

AM: I love that song!

WM: I had completely forgotten about that and then it didn’t hit me until that moment. I went to the opening night of the residency and she closed the night with that song. It was such a beautiful moment for me to get to experience and for me to be able to look back at that little boy and think, wow. The journey to go from that moment in my life to this one! It was just a full circle moment. That was a really special moment.

Then the third one, I have to say that that one is hard. There are so many special moments. I mean there are so many people. I am going in between Selena Gomez (Only Murders in the Building, Selena + Chef, Selena Gomez: My Mind & Me), JLo (Enough, Hustlers, Atlas), Paris Hilton (The Simple Life, Paris in Love, This is Paris) – there are so many moments! Even my Oscars moment last season was so special. It’s really tough!

AM: I recognize that as I knew it would be!

WM: There’s also 2 epic Beyoncé moments!

As a whole, I remember growing up as a kid, I had all of these posters of singers. Remember those tabloid magazines like J14? I had all of these posters of these celebrities over my bed. Every celebrity on that wall, I dressed! Like Britney Spears (Kenan & Kell, Will & Grace, Crossroads), working with her was such a beautiful experience for me because my first exposure to American music and the English language – I learned to speak through the voices of beautiful talented artists like Beyoncé, Mariah, Britney and now here I am at a point where they believe in my art.

AM: You have left such a mark on the fashion industry, what do you want your legacy to be?

WM: I think that my legacy is wrapped in the word authenticity. I really push all of my clients that I dress and I do it with the way that I present myself and people really finding their true beauty and authenticity. We all know what we want.

When we’re all going somewhere and we know what we want, we say I want to wear this, I wish I could wear that etc. We know what we want and sometimes it’s a matter of being afraid or not wanting to do too much and some people wonder whether wearing something will get people talking. But you know what you want so if you know what you want, why not?

That is what I want my legacy to be. I want it to be about authenticity. So when people come to me, I tell them to tell me what they’re dreams are. I want to be let in and no limits so I know the vibe, the essence, and who you are as a person. What do you want to show? Forget what people are going to say – it’s about you – what do you want? I try to do that with even the way that I dress. I dress for me and I’m not trying to follow a trend or to be like anyone else. I’m doing me and that lets me radiate on my own terms and on my own level.

AM: As someone who I know your schedule is always packed, when you’re not designing or working on the next project, how do you take time for yourself? Do you find that time because I know when you work for yourself it’s tough to turn it off and we have to figure out ways that we can focus on ourselves so that we are infusing our energy back to us. That way we can be our best selves for everything that we are doing?

WM: I do try to make it a time to give time for myself. I do know that it takes a lot whether I’m meeting with my clients or I am going into fittings. I invest all of my in my work and with people so it’s very draining, but I always make it a point to make sure that I have my me time. My gym is in the mornings, my yoga classes, those are my me times. I try to make any moment that I can with me – even if I am just walking around the city. I put my headphones on and I put a song on that makes me feel good. I am runway walking down the street – that is me! It’s just what brings me joy, it clears my mind, and it sort of allows me to process it. Because despite it being a lot of work and very demanding, and a lot to process and deal with and manage because I have a large team at the Atelier from pattern makers, sewers, hand beaders, and teams of assistants, the PR team, the Social Media team – it’s a lot to drive the energy of my village. It takes a village, but to me, I am in charge of driving that energy and it’s very draining. Now when I say draining, I mean it in the most loving way. To me, draining is not a negative word. It’s sort of like, if you love to run marathons, it’s going to be draining – but you love it! But I always make it fun. This is fun. I live in a fantasy world. Because I love it, I find those me moments in there.

AM: I totally get and feel the same way!

WM: Even talking to you right now! I’m having fun!

AM: That’s the thing! We get to do so many things and to engage with so many people that you may feel tired, but when you love what you’re doing you’re always able to dip into that well. Somehow, you figure out how you can refresh yourself.

In this industry and I know you know of people like this as well, they went out for something that they wanted to do, it didn’t work out and then they either stopped or soured on the experience. Then there are those such as yourself that wanted it, found a way, and they are living exactly what they wanted and I always find that to be amazing and energizing as I love knowing those stories especially when it’s from those that I have admired their work from their beginnings and have been able to see that trajectory over time. It’s such a vibrant community to be part of.

IG @waltercollection

PHOTOGRAPHY CREDITS | FRONT/BACK COVER, PG 16 Chris Martin | PG 19, 20, 23, 24, 28, Alex W Photography | PG 31 - 34 for 9LIST STORI3S Kelly Balchim |

Read the JUN ISSUE #102 of Athleisure Mag and see BEHIND THE SEAMS | Walter Mendez in mag.

ESCAPE WITH FLAVOR | CHANEL IMAN

Miami Swim Week took place May 29th - Jun 3rd of this year and a number of designers took their looks to the runways across South Beach as we already begin thinking of upcoming travels next year! It always ends up being a star studded events as athletes, celebs, recording artists, and enthusiasts show up to the shows as well as the associated parties!

We caught up with Supermodel Chanel Iman who was a Victoria's Secret Angel, as well as walked their shows, as well as iconic houses including Tom Ford, Gucci, Versace, Roberto Cavalli to name a few. She has also been in a range of campaigns for Dolce & Gabbana, Ralph Lauren, Bottega Veneta and more. She shared why she loves Miami Swim Week, shows she has enjoyed watching this season, the power of fashion, her summer travels, and partnering with CÎROC Limonata.

ATHLEISURE MAG: What do you love about Miami Swim Week?

CHANEL IMAN: I’m a beach lover so it’s exciting to see the new swimwear designs. I also really love Miami.

AM: Tell us about 3 of your favorite shows that took place this season?

CI: The Louis Vuitton Pharrell men’s fashion show is one of my favorites. Zuhair Murad is also one of my favorite shows to watch because of all the beautiful dresses every season! Rick Owens is such an edgy show with everyday great pieces I can’t wait to rock.

AM: Why is fashion so empowering for women and how can women use that as it pertains to their swimwear?

CI: Fashion is so empowering for women because it’s a way of expressing yourself and how you feel for the day.

AM: How have you found confidence through fashion?

CI: I feel confident about creating a new look for myself every day. I like matching highs and lows for a unique look. I work a lot with my stylist, Monica Rose, and she pulls the best.

AM: As someone who enjoys traveling, what are some tips that you have that we can use as we’re navigating across the globe?

CI: Travel light and take pieces that you can mix and match. Be conscious of where you’re traveling so you can respect the culture wherever you are traveling. I try not to overpack so I could leave space for new items wherever I go.

AM: Where do you enjoy traveling during the Summer and what are 3 must-haves that you will bring for a stylish beach getaway?

CI: Europe is our favorite destination to travel during the summer. We love the South of France, South of Italy, Greece, and Spain. I have to travel with my body chains, swimwear, and a good pair of flats.

AM: You have partnered with CÎROC Limonata, can you tell us more about this and why you enjoy it in your favorite summer cocktails.

CI: Partnering with CÎROC Limonata has been an incredibly exciting venture for me. CÎROC Limonata is the perfect blend of sophistication and taste, making it an ideal ingredient for summer cocktails. What I love most about it is its vibrant lemon flavor, which is both invigorating and versatile. Whether I’m hosting a gathering with friends or enjoying a quiet evening at home, CÎROC Limonata brings a touch of elegance to any occasion.

AM: Are there any projects that you are working on that you would like to share that we can keep an eye out for?

CI: It’s too early to share now, but there’s something in the works. Stay tuned to find out.

IG @chaneliman

@ciroc

PHOTOGRAPHY CREDITS | PG 41 Loamis Media | PG 44 for 9LIST STORI3S Valeria Sarto |

Read the JUN ISSUE #102 of Athleisure Mag and see ESCAPE WITH FLAVOR | CHANEL IMAN in mag.

9LIST STORI3S | WALTER MENDEZ

Read the JUN ISSUE #102 of Athleisure Mag and see 9LIST STORI3S | Walter Mendez in mag.

9LIST STORI3S | CHANEL IMAN

Read the JUN ISSUE #102 of Athleisure Mag and see 9LIST STORI3S | Chanel Iman in mag.

63MIX ROUTIN3S | ALLYSON FANGER

Read the JUN ISSUE #102 of Athleisure Mag and see 63MIX ROUTIN3S | Allyson Fanger in mag.

THE 9LIST

Read the JUN ISSUE #102 of Athleisure Mag and see THE 9LIST in mag.

9LOOKS | BLUMARBLE

Read the JUN ISSUE #102 of Athleisure Mag and see 9LOOKS | Blumarble in mag.

IT STARTS WITH THE CHARACTER | ALLYSON FANGER

When you're watching a series or a film, there are a number of elements that draw you in and provide additional context beyond the dialogue that is being spoken on the screen. Costume design is one that we're always watching as it adds that element of visual texture.

We sat down with Costume Designer Allyson Fanger who has brought her creative approach to a number of series and films including Wild Things, 10 Things I Hate About You, 80 For Brady, Grace & Frankie, Shrinking, Apples Never Fall, and Mack & Rita to name a few. We wanted to know more about how she chose this field, how she got into the industry, iconic looks that really delve into and drive the story forward, and how she approaches these projects.

ATHLEISURE MAG: I have been such a fan of your work and it’s such an honor to be able to talk with you!

ALLYSON FANGER: Oh, thank you so much!

AM: I have been a fan of your work since Wild Things and 10 Things That I Hate About You! I remember being in college and watching 10 Things That I Hate About You and just watching the images and how the characters were dressed and it really stuck with me! It was seared into my mind so personally, I have been a fan for awhile.

AF: I love it! It’s having a moment!

AM: Right?

AF: It’s so great!

AM: It’s really a testament to your approach to your work. As you’ve said, it’s still super relevant!

I’m a fellow Midwesterner myself and I live in NY now. I’m always intrigued by how those of us who come from that area of the country and then we end up leaving to go to the East or the West Coast. I find it interesting. How did you get your start in this industry?

AF: Well, I mean, that’s a big question. I got a degree in Anthropology actually and I started getting into photography and visual media towards the end of college. I have always been a very live in the moment type of person in general. In school, I didn’t know what I wanted to do and didn’t know that this was a career path that was possible to me. As you know, I lived and grew up in Minneapolis and went to college, then I came back after college, and I traveled a ton! I went to South East Asia, I went to India, Singapore, Nepal, Thailand, Malaysia – you know I, did that whole South East Asia thing. That really was very formative I think in my interest in culture and society and people! The difference in people in different areas and cultures, socioeconomically, geographically, how they grew up in a certain area and how things defined them from a costume perspective – from a look perspective, I was really attuned to the different colors, especially in India! Like the beautiful pigmented colors that have to do with not only skin tone of the people in the area, but also the light. The way the light hits and what looks well and the way that they use pigmented dyes and plants to make their colors.

All of those things were not lost on me and it was hugely formative to me on all of my work today. That is why I am able to find the various details and nuances in character and all of the elements that feed in to making a person, an individual full and defined and different and unique in their own way. Every single person is.

When I was doing Anthropology and Social Anthropology, the study of people – so that kind of tied into that and I came back to Minneapolis, and I wondered what I was going to do. I started hanging out with a lot of artists in Minneapolis just because those were my people. I had this very good friend at the time whose name was Gus. He was a big commercial photographer in Minneapolis. I was talking with him and I was starting to have a crisis on what I was going to do with my life. I went to live in London for a year and then I came back and I asked him what would I do with my life as I was 26 and he said, “honey, you should be a stylist.” He said it right away and I asked him what it was as I didn’t know anything about it. He told me to come work with him as he was a big commercial photographer and that I should work with his stylist Molly. I worked with her for 1 day and I got it. I knew that that was what I should be doing. So I started working on commercials in Minneapolis and I was making good money doing that, but then I got much more interested in doing character. I was like, commercials are fun, but at that time, especially with where commercials were – they wanted their people in Gap khakis and that was the mode of that very average look. It was like a great place to be in to learn the nuts and bolts, but I was really interested in character and at the time, I was very fortunate to also see that there were a lot of films that were coming to Minneapolis so I just hustled and got myself hired as a PA on a couple of features there and then I met Sharen Davis (Westworld, The Help, Fences) who is a Costume Designer and she is like my mentor. I don’t know if you know her.

AM: Oh yes!

AF: She did Dreamgirls and Watchman series, she is one of my dearest, dearest friends and I love her so much! She was like, “oh, you have to move to LA,” and she hired me on projects and she got me in the union and she kind of put me on my way and so here I am!

AM: That’s amazing!

AF: I mean, I did take 7 years off because I did have 3 children.

AM: Your body of work is amazing! Before we start delving into that. I want our readers to understand the difference between a Costume Designer and a Stylist?

AF: Oh that’s such an interesting question because there really is quite a difference! I mean, a Costume Designer and it’s funny because it comes up all the time, because my actors will always ask if I will style them for an event. I’m always like, “I definitely could,” but costume design is really about character development and informing character through look choices right and storytelling and that is what I love about it so much. It’s about intention, propelling the story forward, giving the viewers a kind of intimate relationship visually with characters and helping them to relate to the people that are on screen and that is what I love so much about what I do. It’s about finding pieces and I always try to have very personal pieces on people that hopefully get recognized by viewers. When I am doing a TV series especially, you watch these characters evolve and that’s part of it too. You put in elements of character evolution and how they journey through the story and as it changes. Sometimes, you don’t even know how it is changing. Then it’s changing and then we adjust and that’s how you make your choices in the morning. I like to say that people say to me, “I know who that character was before they even opened their mouth.” When they say that, I know that I am doing my job well. I think that that is true of all people. You get a lot of information just by what they are wearing and it’s one of those things that people don’t register consciously until it’s not there - you know what I mean? It’s interesting. You know when people have pictures coming up on their phones?

AM: Yes.

AF: One of our producers, he changed his picture and put up one where he was dressed up from an event for an Awards show. I was like, “oh Mike, I love that you changed your photo!” He was like, “yeah, you know what? Someone else had their photo and it presented so nice and I feel that I should have one too.” I said, “See how important it is in what you wear and you wear and how much the impact is when someone that you don’t even know?” It’s so huge! I mean, the people who even work in the business don’t recognize that that is happening.

Styling is about more of the look and stylists developing relationships with PR companies more and working with showrooms and there are loans. So that is why when I say to my actors that although it’s flattering and I would love to do everything, I say, "you know, working with someone where that is their world – it’s a different world.” And I do do it sometimes, but it’s it’s own niche world and it’s about look, fashion, impact, red carpet moment you know and it’s a whole other arena. Do you know what I mean?

AM: I am a stylist and I agree that Costume Design and Styling although there are similarities that do occupy very distinctive space. You could do both but they have very different elements to them. I may be thinking of a set that I am styling or a project and putting a story behind it but they are still very specific moments in time as opposed to having an arc that is not only spanning various episodes and seasons, but also integrating with a cast of characters that speaks back to one another.

When I watched Apples Never Fall, within the first few minutes of the show I knew that it was you who did the costume design. There are tones and elements of your work especially when I look at each character and how they are set against others in the cast that I can see it’s an Allyson Fanger fingerprint. Like you said, before the character opens their mouth, I have a great sense of who they are, who they’re aligned with, and in many cases how they are different from those that they are meant to be in the same group with.

AF: Thank you so much!

AM: All of those nuances that are taking place for a series or a movie Is not all the levers that I am navigating when I am doing a shoot of x amount of looks that may span 14 shots. There might be elements of it but not anywhere along the same scale and it’s still within the parameters of 1-3 people and just for that shoot.

AF: It’s different and it is its own art. Stylists who do it well, they blow me away. They know how to get those cameras snapping.

AM: Where do you start once you get attached to a project? For me, I’m looking at dealing directly with the brand, PR, showrooms, etc. I have a moodboard or project board where I’m thinking of the tone of the shoot how it ties into my celeb, the set, and vibe.

For you, what is your treasure trove of things that you are pulling from when you’re going on to a project.

AF: It always starts with the script and the words. It’s a well drawn character in the script. When I read a script in a project, I know that I get so excited when I know that the characters are so well developed and sometimes some of them are not and the writers know! I have put together boards for a meeting and I’ll let them know that I am not completely sure of this person and they’ll say, “yeah, I know. We didn’t give you any information.”

So the information is in if they have flushed out a character, if they know who that person is, then they are able to translate it into their words and into the story. That then gives me the information that I need. I look at geography which is huge to me. Where is this person from, where did they grow up vs where do they live now? What do they carry with them from that time from their formative years? We then know what their socioeconomic status is and I always work with the production set as I want to know what their house looks like, their car – all of those things are what I go off of. Then it’s what are they doing in the story and what’s their job or not? All of that goes in and then I have meetings and a lot of times as costume designers, they throw you a script and tell you that you’re going to have a meeting with boards which includes everyone – producers, directors and you sort of have to take your best shot at filling in the lines and see. But the thing is, as I have done at this point in my career, it’s either a match or it’s not. As you see it, and again, I am getting such good scripts now, that I feel like I am always able to sort of hone in on what it is an things that they haven’t thought about a lot of times too. They get excited and will say, “oh my God yes!”

Like in Apples Never Fall, one of the things that I did was – the relationship between Stan Delaney (Sam Neill) and Brooke Delaney (Essie Randles) was the strongest relationship in the script and she was the most of his ally. So, I helped to tell that story with help from clothing by her. Like his oxford shirt, she would wear the shirt sometimes over more tank top and athletic pant vibes. In my head, those were taken straight out of Stan’s closet. I love telling stories with families so much because I love family dynamics. I love finding the thread in the family, the thread was already there in Apples Never Fall and the thread was already tennis, but you know just relating the characters through and finding the differences and well defining them and then finding the sameness.

I love doing mother/daughter. In Grace & Frankie, I always imagined that Mallory (Brooklyn Decker) and Brianna (June Diane Raphael), although they were so different in how they presented, both could have pulled from Grace’s (Jane Fonda) closet for different things.

AM: My mind was blown the very first episode of Grace & Frankie. I mean it was a confluence of beauty from the writing, the cast, how the characters were dressed, the set, etc. What made you want to be part of this project? This series ran for 7 seasons unlike Apples Never Fall which was a limited series, so how do you create this world and balance between growth of the characters as well as continuity. It must be incredibly difficult.

AF: That was something that we talked about from the very beginning of Grace & Frankie – it was about their journey and how to make sure to tell that through costumes. One of the big ones for that was Grace, because Grace comes in at the beginning and she was so closed off emotionally, damaged, hurt, and protecting herself. Also, just her aesthetic in general was stoney and we used ceramic colors. So I said that we should have her colors be those of ceramics and pottery – grey, taupe, camel – it was about using those cold colors.

AM: There was a sterility about it although the pieces were beautiful. So you had these sterile moments with a bit of a prickly edge that would come out every now and then!

AF: Yes! The collars and she’s just very controlled as a person emotionally! Then you have Frankie (Lily Tomlin) which is such a fun person. What a blessing that show was for me. Frankie was this artist soul and I had her color as a Santa Fe sunset. She’s got her red, yellow, orange, green, color pattern, texture – all of her kooky moments. I didn’t want her to feel like – and we talked about this a lot – it wasn’t about having her as a caricature of a hippie lady or a Bohemian lady. She had to have a lot of depth and she’s an artist. So I really looked at the artists ladies in Norway and Sweden and it was about having the long layers, architectural and jewelry and I used crystals because obviously she was spiritual so I used those large crystals on her and if you noticed some of the necklaces were made out of rubber. So she wore a lot of those vibes also. She had a number of European brands that she wore so that is something that I did with her.

The things about their journey together is that we had Grace bring color into her life and that happened around the end of Season 1 and then we kind of kept it going and we never really changed her completely as a person, but we would bring more Frankie into her life as she embraced life more right? She experienced life more through Frankie. We had all of Grace’s shirts made. The first shirts, the color shirts - the first print that Grace had ever worn were these shirts that I got that were made from Carolina Herrera and we loved that shirt! It’s such a great shape and a classic look.

AM: Really loved that shirt!

AF: It was perfect for Grace and I was like, “they don’t really make print or color.” I reached out to them and I said, “do you have any print or color?” They said that they actually had some archival fabrics that they made the first 4 shirts for us for that show. Then that was it, there were 4. So I started sourcing fabric and making all of those shirts. So all of the shirts that Grace wore, they were custom and we made all of them as they kind of didn’t exist at the time! A lot of people are making them now though. So that’s the story of them!

AM: I love hearing about those shirts as I loved them! Is it different for you if you’re dong a series versus a film?

AF: Yeah, but well, not necessarily with character development, it depends on the arc, it depends on the story. Films are easier.

AM: Yeah it’s an endpoint!

AF: Yeah, you have 1 script! And you have it ahead of time. I’m an adrenaline girl and I love a challenge. I thrive well in chaos in this world. I don’t get rattled, I kind of get very last minute in TV because they are always writing those scripts! Right now I’m on Shrinking -

AM: Another great display of characters as I love the palettes.

AF: Thank you, we’re on Episode 10 and I don’t have the script for 11 and 12 yet and we start shooting that in probably about a week! So, it has it’s own challenges! Whereas a film has its own arc where it’s wild and busy and you have all of these things going on and then it’s done and it’s over. I do love doing film and I want to do more film going forward in my career and I am manifesting that for sure.

AM: What are 3 of your favorite looks that you have created whether it’s for a series or a film or 3 characters that you really loved working with?

AF: Ugh, I love them all! When I get this question, I mean they’re all my children so that is such a tough question for me. I really feel attached and love all of my characters so much! I mean, Frankie is probably the most near and dear to my heart. The character Frankie, I mean first, Lily Tomlin (9 to 5, The West Wing, 80 for Brady) one of the most amazing women and such an incredible person and so is Jane (Monster-in-Law, The Butler, The Newsroom)! I mean, the two of them probably – I have to say that it was the most seminal for me and really transformed me as an artist in this world and I got to spend 7 years with them and I got to really get to know them as members of my own family and they kind of were. I think that the thing with Grace & Frankie is that they resonated so strongly with people because they resonated with some part of everyone’s family or someone who they knew and loved! Everybody saw someone that they knew or loved within one of these women or both! I always say too that Grace & Frankie, they are characters, but we are all a little Grace and all a little Frankie. We have pieces of both of these women in us and our mothers and our sisters and our aunts right? So, I think that that’s why they were resonating so strongly with so many people.

AM: Even the other characters in the show, I have a friend group or family member that reminded me of them. Like many, I was sad when it was over. It got me a bit teary eyed. I know that things can’t go on for forever and sometimes when a show stays on too long, the thing that you loved about it stops taking place because maybe there isn’t enough story and then that isn’t great either. But it was such a comfort with the visuals, the cast, the writing, and it would be hard for even another show to replicate and achieve that tone and playful push pull hat took place throughout the series in the way that it did. It’s rare to have that type of an ensemble cast, with the breadth and depth of topics covered, and all the other elements.

AF: Well that’s Marta Kauffman (Dream On, Friends, Leave the World Behind) she’s amazing and I am very grateful!

AM: Do you have any upcoming projects that are coming up that you are able to share that we can keep an eye out for?

AF: Yeah! I’m doing Shrinking Season 2 right now. I’m thinking, did I do anything between Apples and Shrinking? No – we’ve had some strikes here in our industry.

AM: Of course.

AF: So there has been some stalls. I’m doing a pilot with Marta Kauffman of Grace & Frankie. We’re going to be starting that soon also. Right now, those are my babies and they’re keeping me quite busy!

IG @allysonfanger

We could have spoken with Allyson Fanger even more about how she delves into her character and like that her approach pulls in a number of factors so that the characters are easily positioned in our mind! For those who have yet to see Grace & Frankie, you can stream all episodes right now on Netflix.

Apples Never Fall can be streamed now in its entirety for this limited series on Peacock. As a bit of bonus information, Allyson sent us some notes on how she approached creating the costume direction for this show which focuses on a tennis family!

We enjoyed hearing how she looked at the relationship between Stan and Brooke to inform how would they look and to show their connection with one another. She sent us some other notes which focuses on the relationship between Stan and his son Troy (Jake Lacy), as his father always called him out for being flashy, but he wore a number of big brands too!

She shared that Troy is flashy, but in a way that reads more of a wealthy understated nature. This is more of an anti flashy aesthetic where the clothes are expensive, but there are no logos or there may be subtle ones. It's all about a IYKYK vibe. His clothes are meticulously fitted as well as being tailored.

In terms of his father Stan, he's not focused on whether a brand is expensive, but it's about brand names that are athletic. Tennis is not just what he excelled in or involves training others, it is who he is and is very much part of his identity. So it's natural that he is in an athletic aesthetic like tracksuits and branded pieces. Interestingly, in those moments that he is not dressing like this, he seems like he is out of place.

Interestingly enough, both of them have large personalities and egos and how they present and dress is important to them and as much as they butt heads throughout the series with one another, it's really because they are similar in their personalities.

When you're watching the series, brands such as Tory Burch, The Upside, Lucky in Love, Sporty & Rich, Ciao Lucia, Venroy, Ralph Lauren Polo, Alo, Lululemon, FILA, NIKE, Reebok, Helly Hansen, and Golden Age of Tennis were included.

While we watched this series, we were reminded of an array of tennis stars. Interestingly enough, we were not that far off as each character had an inspirational star!

Stan Delaney's costume direction was inspired by Jimmy Connors, Joy Delaney spired by Jimmy Connors, Joy Delaney (Annette Bening) was inspired by Martina Navratilova, Troy Delaney's costume direction came from Roger Federer, Amy Delaney's (Alison Brie) look was inspired by Maria Sharapova, Logan Delaney (Conor Merrigan Turner) is a mixture of Bjorn Borg/Andre Agassi, Brooke Delaney which we spoke on earlier in this article is inspired by Anna Kournikova, and Harry Haddad's (Giles Matthey) costume direction comes from Rafael Nadal.

PHOTOS COURTESY | Allyson Fanger

Read the MAY ISSUE #101 of Athleisure Mag and see IT STARTS WITH THE CHARACTER | Allyson Fanger in mag.

ROCK THIS FOR MUCH NEEDED SUMMER FRIDAYS

Read the MAY ISSUE #101 of Athleisure Mag and see Rock This For Much Needed Summer Fridays in mag.

INDULGE YOURSELF AND ME TIME | JOSIE NATORI

When we began working in the fashion industry, there are a number of memories that we will never forget that allowed us to see the work of those who have brands that focus on the importance of heritage and artistry. One of our NYFW experiences involved a stunning runway show that showcased dramatic crisp white shirts with architectural collars and accessorized with belts and earrings. We also attended an intimate fragrance launch at her home where she not only played piano for us, but allowed us to see how her brand is truly one that runs seamlessly in your life beyond just what one wears on one's body. Josie Natori is the epitome of refined style, luxury, and the ultimate in self-care.

We sat down with the Founder and Chief Executive of The Natori Co. in her offices in NYC to talk about being a child prodigy in piano, how she climbed the corporate ladder at Merrill Lynch, and how her passion for creativity led to her launching her namesake company which includes a number of coveted labels, and the importance of having brand authenticity and integrity.

ATHLEISURE MAG: It is such a pleasure to see you again! We met many years ago!

JOSIE NATORI: Yes, you were at one of my fragrance launches, I don’t remember which one it was.

AM: Yes it was awhile ago and it was such a beautiful event as I was able to hear you play the piano, and you hosted it at your home. I have been such a fan of the brand for so long so it’s amazing to be here now to talk to you!

When did you realize that you loved fashion and wanted to design?

JN: No, I never said that I wanted to design. I loved fashion, when you grow up in the Philippines, you love clothes. So it was never a dream or an aim or a goal. It was a total accident as it was not something that I would have thought about.

I started out in Wall Street for 9 years and it was a great business to be in. But then I also had this artistic background as a pianist as I had been playing since I was 4 and that creative and artistic aspect as well. I never dreamt of nor wanted to and I don’t like to be called a clothing designer. I’m an artist and a businesswoman. I like beautiful things and I have figured out how to do them.

AM: What do you love about playing the piano?

JN: It’s kind of second nature. You’re born, you dance, you play, you sing, you dance, you act, and my mother, she was also a pianist. So everyone had to play an instrument, you didn’t question it – you just did it. I started playing when I was 4, I performed concerts and at the age of 9, I played solo with the Manila Philharmonic Orchestra. Thank God that I did it and I love to play the piano because it’s a great way for me to express myself through the piano.

AM: That really nice.

You came to the US and attended Manhattanville College with your focus in Economics and you’re such a trailblazer, as you climbed the corporate ladder at Merrill Lynch in the 70s.

JN: Yes, I was the first female VP of Investment Banking at Merrill Lynch.

AM: Well what did it mean to you to have that position especially as a woman?

JN: You know what, when I was on Wall Street, that never really occurred to me. Growing up in Manila, I came from a place with strong matriarchal society where the women were very strong. My mother was an entrepreneur, my grandmother was also a businesswoman. I never questioned that. So when other people would look at what I did and say how unique it was, for me I never had that as an issue, I never confronted it, I didn’t worry about it, I just did it. I know that those looking at me felt that as a woman and a minority, I checked 2 boxes, but I never saw it that way. I think that I was just at the right place at the right time and I think that with my background and my upbringing, I had no fear.

AM: What took place for you to transition from being in finance and doing well, to move on to fashion?

JN: Yes, I got bored after being there for 9 years and I came to the decision that I had no desire to be the President of Merrill Lynch. It’s not that I was given that opportunity, but I knew that that wasn’t something that I wanted. I felt that I had climbed the mountain, and I woke up in the morning and I felt that I didn’t have -

AM: That fire.

JN: Yes. So I always knew that I would have my own business because my grandmother is entrepreneurial, my father started his business and he was a self-made man. It was only a question of what business. Then Ken and I got married and I was thinking of what business we could do. We explored a brokerage firm, but we didn’t have the resources and it wasn’t the right time in the Stock Market. So I started exploring and thinking about other businesses like opening up a McDonald’s and other ideas. But it was just by accident that the business of import/export in the Philippines came up. Not in a million years was I thinking about design, it was about the trade of product. It evolved and I was really fortunate and the left brain and the right brain aligned. That’s what was missing. Wall Street had made me work in one way and there is a lot of creativity in that field that people find exciting, but for me, it was boring. In terms of finance I did enjoy making the deals. But in fashion you’re making deals and also working with product. It was exciting and I have always enjoyed fashion, I’m a shopaholic.

AM: What was your vision initially when you first launched the label?

JN: There was no vision, it was just buying and selling. It was just me seeing items and purchasing it and you just keep going. It was only later on when I brought in an embroidered blouse to a buyer and she felt that it would be great as a sleep shirt and so that was lingerie. At the time, lingerie was either lewd or frumpy. So I was lucky that I was able to get into that area and I was also very persistent and I learned on the job!

AM: It’s the best way to go about it sometimes.

JN: No one taught me.

AM: Looking at your brand today, you have a number of labels. What is your process in deciding what pieces will go with what portion of the label and the corresponding design?

JN: I think that over the years we have been fortunate to be able to have some tiers because you have Josie Natori which is the most luxurious, distinctive, and most expensive label and that’s not for everybody and it’s available at Saks in terms of its distribution. Natori is more everyday and it’s at Dillard's and N Natori at Von Maur. It’s for that day-to-day life. We also have Josie which is a bit dormant right now, but it is for that younger customer. We’re just really fortunate to be able to have that a brand that has different tiers and also includes various categories. I think that we have something to offer for everyone. Whether you’re buying a caftan for $6,000, $900, or $198 you see the difference in materials, but the integrity of the brand is there.

AM: I have had the pleasure to wear some of your caftan dresses from Josie Natori and they are the most stunning and beautiful pieces to wear.

JN: Thank you!

AM: One of the things that I like so much about your lines is that you do have a number of licensees and categories that are within the brand. What is your process in terms of how you decide on including accessories, home goods, candles, fragrances, etc?

JN: Well, I think that it was after 5 years. You know, you’re not really a brand until the customer tells you so. When the customer tells you, that’s when you can look at things differently and Natori really is a state of mind. There is a whole philosophy about it. I thought that the brand is about feeling good and there is a sociological element about the brand and there is also a design element. The brand is about having feel good products and being true to yourself as well as feminine. Then there is the actual aesthetic of the design which is the East-West and the modern aspects of it and you can see it in a number of the pieces that we have. It is about bringing art into life.

But when it comes to products, I’m not going to do pots and pans, that doesn’t relate to the brand. We’re focused on the inside and out as well as head-to-toe. Because you can create that East- West in so many places in the home and under the covers. A feel good brand means you’re going to think about fragrances, fabrics, and what makes you feel good. As a brand, I think that we have a point of view and that’s what makes us distinctive and there is also that psychographic where when you buy Natori, it’s a gift to yourself. It’s about feeling feminine, loving yourself, why not? It’s indulgence.

AM: One of my favorite bras is actually from your line as it’s a T-Shirt style super light and comfortable while feeling luxurious. It’s always easy to wear and I agree with you on how the brand inherently has that feel good nature about it.

In looking at the collections that you have, it allows that woman to go out to for a night on the town, to work, to being casual and to really navigate her life. What would be 3 pieces that are essential across your whole brand or for each individual label?

JN: That’s really hard and you know, my philosophy is that we make clothes that make you feel good, feminine, comfortable, elegant, and stylish. But where you wear it, that’s your decision! I’m not telling you what to do! Some people like to take our slip dress and wear it to sleep in, but someone else is wearing it to go out in. So for me, it’s a range of possibilities and a point of view. It’s a sensibility of how you dress you know? It’s a statement, it’s feminine, and to me, it’s about wearing it wherever you want!

In terms of pieces, you want to have that great foundation, so you want to make sure that your underwear is comfortable. Then you have those options of wearing a caftan, or a lovely kimono or a dress. Of course, there’s accessories and it’s hard to point out just one as there are so many options! To me, the items that are closest to your skin are the most important as opposed to what’s outside.

AM: I couldn’t agree more!

There was a runway show that you did years ago and I know my mom and I attended this show. Most of the looks were dynamic white crisp shirts paired with your accessories. I just remember seeing beautiful collars, elements of Geometria, and belts – it was just stunning.

JN: Oh great!

AM: It was like a Dynasty moment which I am a huge fan of as I love the glamour and drama that came through with the way that the characters were styled on that show.

JN: I am very proud of the artistry that we have created for this brand and the handwork comes from the Philippines. We have been able to bring that craftsmanship to our collections and it’s about bringing the best of the past and to apply it to modern luxury whether it's on your body or your bed. I just think that we deserve it. We work so hard on this Earth!

AM: Where do you see the brand going whether it’s collaborations or big product launches that we should keep an eye out for?

JN: We are fortunate that we have built a following and a customer base and we have never taken that for granted! We need to continue to be relevant to the next generation. We want to continue only do the categories that relate to the brand and we always have to think about who our customer is. Each generation is different and I am always thinking about who we can speak to what they are looking for and what makes sense for who we are. We can’t be stuck. My son is the President of Natori and we’re always looking forward and keeping things fresh.

AM: What does it mean to you to have Natori as a member of the CFDA?

JN: Obviously, it’s a wonderful organization that really showcases and supports its members and it’s great to have a voice and I appreciate that. I don’t really consider myself a designer, but I think it is important to be involved whether it’s hosting a function/event, to mentor as well as to advise and to have that representation.

AM: Absolutely.

What are you the most proud of in terms of what you have done with this Empire?

JN: Well, it’s not an empire number 1.

AM: I think it is a big deal to be around as long as you have with your distribution channels, licenses and being a multi-million dollar brand. To start as a sleepwear/lingerie brand and to have an array of celebs like Lady Gaga, Kate Beckinsale, and Rose Huntingon-Whiteley wearing your labels.

JN: I have to say that we are very proud. There aren’t too many brands, I don’t think that have lasted this long and are independent. So I feel that that is something that my family is very proud of. My son Ken taking over as President, but I’m not retiring anytime soon! I’m getting close to 77, but I don’t feel old you know? It’s really a mindset to me and I think young! When I’m traveling with our team, sometimes they say, “can we rest?” and I say, “what do you mean rest? It’s time to go!” They are more than half my age. So it’s fun and I think that we are just proud that we are able to build this brand and we are proud of the connections to the Philippines because I think that without my Asian heritage, and I am very proud about that, it is what distinguishes me and it is my point of differentiation to bring that heritage and background and to bring the essence of that in an art form into our prints and patterns is great to add and to infuse in our modern way of living. It’s been an exciting journey you know? We’re known for our prints and I think that being able to have that distinctive point of view we are proud of what we have offered and continue to do. We are proud of being a privately held and family owned company. But, there is no sitting on your laurels. It’s a very tough environment and we’re just navigating that is the business climate is different and has its challenges. But it’s exciting when you’re doing this and to see what you have built and will continue to do as you evolve and to present yourself the way that you want to present yourself. There is freedom in being able to do that. I’m proud of that and I think the real test is that I want the brand to live beyond me. It has to keep on going and we can’t bastardize the brand. I’d rather keep the brand like this and to have integrity which is important to me.

AM: You have been such a trailblazer and it has been such an honor to have you talk with us about the brand so that we can share with our fans and readers of Athleisure Mag!

JN: I’ve looked at your magazine and Athleisure doesn’t mean that you’re just wearing the sweats, track suits, or activewear. I think the term and how you present it is redefining it. Natori is a way of dressing. It’s a way of dressing that’s feminine, glamorous, statement, full of color, happy, and it feels good. It’s a mindset of how you want to be whether I’m relaxing and reading the paper on the couch. Athleisure is my time! It’s me time! That’s why Natori is about buying for yourself! You can buy it and afford the pieces that you want and I think it is interesting!

IG @natori

@josienatori

PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY | Natori

Read the APR ISSUE #100 of Athleisure Mag and see INDULGE YOURSELF AND ME TIME | Josie Natori in mag.

THE JOY OF ACCESSORIES | TONY DROCKTON, HAMMITT

Accessories are always the favorite part of our look and it's always great to add to our collection. Over a decade ago, we learned about a boho brand that allowed us to wear them with a number of our outfits, no matter the style we were rocking at the time. This brand is known for their leathers, fabrication, style, and very quickly become a go-to that you enjoy wearing!

We caught up with CEO/Founder, and Chief Cheerleader, Tony Drockton of Hammitt. His passion for this brand and its growth is undeniable. He believes in having fun in the workplace and creating memories for those that will wear the brand as they make it their own. We wanted to know more about how the brand started, how he came to the brand, the design aesthetic, and upcoming projects that we should keep an eye out for.

ATHLEISURE MAG: It’s such a pleasure to connect with you as we have been a fan of the brand for as long as it has been around! I also love that we have a few things in common from both of us being from the Midwest!

TONY DROCKTON: I’m from Cleveland and I get to make fun of it because I was born there. It was great growing up there, but then I just absolutely wanted more. I like going back, I’m grateful to have family there, but I’m also grateful as you know – you being on the East Coast and me on the West Coast, it’s great to be here! Where in Indiana?

AM: Indianapolis and my parents met and graduated from your Alma mater, Bowling Green State University!

TD: Oh wow! I’ll be back there in BG this month.

AM: Nice, I went to Indiana University.

TD: Yup, that’s a good one! BG, they have a thing called Entrepreneurship Week every year and I started going back last year and I’m going back this year. I get to speak and judge a competition it’s so fun!

AM: Before we delve into talking about the brand, can you tell me about your background and how you came to Hammitt?

TD: Well we are in our 16th year, quick start, I bumped into Stephanie Hammitt when she was making the bags locally and I fell in love with her as a person as she’s wonderful. She was looking for an investor and I loved the designs and the brand and thought, “let’s give this a shot.” That’s the nexus and once I got into this industry, I fell in love with it.

AM: I remember being gifted a back back in 2009 at an Editor event and I love a lot of the things about that bag that are still cornerstones of the brand. The hardware – the rivets are one of my favorite things, the beautiful fabrication, just how easy it is to wear. I would take them with me to TV segments, a number of events, and travels. I think that it is a testament to the brand that it has really held true as well as having grown into other categories, which is great!

TD: Thank you! The DNA of the brand has been since Stephanie Hammitt and it has really iterated along what we felt would improve the functionality, keep it relevant on the design side, and more importantly to last multiple generations. It’s really about standing the test of time like you mentioned. That’s what we look to do with every new design and also some of our earliest designs are some of our best sellers.

AM: For those that aren’t familiar with the brand, how would you describe what Hammitt is and what are those main things about the brand that people can always see?

TD: I’d say the joy of the brand is how I like to describe it. Like you said, years ago you ran into it and you still remember it and wear it. I think that whether you’re manufacturing footwear or handbags or furniture or cars, when you make something that people get joy out of being apart of, wearing, driving, being in a community of, you’ve nailed it. Think of the late Tony Hsieh, the founder of Zappos, I was just relistening to his biography and he talked about how he wasn’t a shoe guy, he was an experience guy and that he wanted to make sure that his internal team, his vendors, and his customers all had a great experience with Zappos. I follow that same lead with Hammitt.

AM: Being the CEO and the Co-Founder of the brand, tell me about your roles at Hammitt and I also love that you are the Chief Cheerleader which I think is awesome!

TD: Thank you! Well you know, when you’re the founder, you do it all. There’s just a couple of us in the office including our current designer, Jeanne Allen, she's on her 10th year. Then you grow into sort of more of a leadership role as a CEO. I stepped away and became Chairman and brought in a CEO for 7 years and then he just retired. We retired our first long time Hammitt person in March and now I'm CEO again! So I’m Founder, CEO, and also the Chief Cheerleader which has always sort of been my role. I go back to my football days where I was always the guy cheering them on whether I was on defense or offense saying, “we can do it, we can do it!” Whether we were down 1 or up as you want to keep up that energy.

I think it’s very important for people to have fun wherever they work and also cheerleading our team during some of the tougher years. It’s just as important to remind people to stay humble when things are going as well as they are right now and that’s a cheerleader right?

AM: Absolutely.

What’s an average day or week like for you at the brand?

TD: Ha! There isn’t one! You really want to have an open schedule for when people need you. I’m a big believer in keeping that so that I can have 1:1 time as needed. We also have a limited number of regular meetings that we all have within the company and then I try to spend as much of my time in front of our customers or in front of our retail sales associates at our 3 stores, or with our vendors out in some of our Wholesale partners. That’s the joy of standing by our collection in the middle of Minneapolis, and having people try it on and to ask them how they know Hammitt or standing in my store. Or it’s about walking down the street when someone has it on in the wild and asking them how they know about the brand? The next words they say are the words that energize me. Most of the time it’s, “oh I just love this bag, it was given to me by somebody,” or “that it has traveled with me all around the world.” Sometimes it’s simply how many memories that it has created. That’s what they usually talk about. That’s what is so wonderful!

AM: Well, I love the fact that you are so in tune from the customer side and also with your team. My background was in Wholesale, I worked at Lacoste so I dealt with a lot of our accounts. When you see someone that is in the C-Suite that’s rolling their sleeves up, it’s actually energizing not only from a customer perspective, but the actual team of employees that works together. So that’s amazing.

TD: You know Kimmie, in the earliest days, every new person had to work in our in-house distribution center for at least a week. They got to run the products, they got to ship them, pack them, write the handwritten notes when people purchased them, look at the repairs when they came in, and check in new product. That sort of energy can’t be recreated by starting in the office. We’re much bigger now so not everyone is in our fulfillment center, but many of us still spend time on the retail floor, and if we don’t do that, we absolutely spend time at our events. We throw a lot of events and our team always shows up to support. Being in front of the people that love the brand, it’s not work. If it’s work, get out! The greatest companies in the world do this all the time whether it’s in the fashion industry, or any other industry, or the service industry right?

AM: Yup! 100%

How would you define the Hammitt customer?

TD: Ooo. You know, laying aside demographics and laying aside the main psychographics, she loves life and that’s our customer.

AM: I love that! You never know what detailed answer will come with a question like that and it’s great when you hear it, but there is something simple and expansive about she loves life!

I love that the assortment is so diverse whether you’re minimal or not. Can you walk us through the assortment or major product types of the brand?

TD: Well, let’s start with some signature pieces that have been around for about 5-15 years. We have our Daniel which is our satchel and it’s carried all over the country. It can hold a notebook computer or it can hold just a couple of things for the day. We have the Bryant right next to that – those 2 go hand-in-hand. Our collectors have both. Then you go into our clutches and we have the VIP which has been around since almost the beginning and there is a whole series of VIP different styles around that. The belt bag is hot right now so Charles is in charge. There’s a slingback so you can wear it around or wear it as a crossbody it’s a great bag. Then we drop down into the bag that I like because it’s called The Tony!

AM: That’s fair!

TD: It’s a perennial winner when it comes to events. I’m sure for Athleisure Magazine, there are a couple of people that might like sports and you have to have a clear bag when you’re going into the stadiums! Then The Tony leather sits side by side that series. Then we have a new entrant called the Kyle. Kyle is small and goes everywhere for the woman who seeks joy and goes everywhere, she’s going to love Kyle!

AM: Wow! When does the Kyle come out?

TD: Let’s just say that it could be out by the time that people are reading this!

AM: Ok!

So if there had to be only 3 bags that a woman would take to start or round out her collection what would those essentials be in the world of Hammitt?

TD: If she’s going on a trip and she can only take 3, I think that she's going to pack the Charles for everyday and probably inside of that, she is going to have a Tony or a VIP to go out with friends or for some events. Those are the go-to bags that I see most women carrying.

I have to mention one more!

AM: See that’s what happens!

TD: It just came out and we just dropped our VIP Mobile which carries a mobile phone and everything that you need in a day.

AM: In terms of fabrication, I love that you just have so many colors and textures. What’s your approach when it comes to colorways in general or as it pertains to the different bodies?

TD: The beauty of having a brand that has been developed over this time, I have an amazing design team led By Jeanne and Collier Smith, they’re all about color theory and one just currently came back from over seas and the other is in Brazil right now. Additionally, they were in Paris, they have been to Milan, so they just finished choosing colors for Spring 25 and they’re already looking for colors for Summer 25. They really look at color as a combination of when the bags are going to come out and what is the inspiration for the collection. So, they have some pastels in our Fall collection for 24 and they’re pastels – they’re right on the runway in the Fall collections. They really try to align both with that woman that loves to be a little bit on the fashion edge while also always wanting something that is timeless. So they walk that line with color theory.

AM: In terms of hardware, I have always loved that about the brand as well. Is that the same thought that goes into that by maintaining certain elements of it and deviating a bit here and there depending on the styles that it is on?

TD: You know, we’re really consistent on our hardware. The reason for that is the DNA of the brand is actually the look of the the brand from far away and across the street. So that signature rivet detail either comes down on the side, the bottom, or the front of every design. It’s 1 size rivet and it’s spaced pretty consistently and that’s the main hardware. Then the other piece of hardware is interchangeable, for example, all of our straps are removable so you can move them from bag to bag especially when trends change. So, we’re pretty consistent. But I will let you in on a secret – we might be working on a new custom piece of hardware that may come out sometime this year and that’s new for us! What we will do also is that within the rivet, we may change finishes and we might even change to a custom rivet for one of our collectible editions. We have done a lot of collaborations. So we have done collaborations with different brands so there will be some customization on the actual rivet for a specific collection which you might have seen in the past on a few items and you’re definitely going to see that later on this year.

AM: Well that’s exciting.

What is your process in terms of your inline items when you’re thinking of adding items to the heritage of the brand versus keeping the core?

TD: Again, the design team, their call to action is that when they see a need in the market, then they’re going to bring us a new silhouette. So we don’t hamper them and say that we need 4,000 new silhouettes every week. In general, it comes down to about 4 times a year that they’re going to bring out a silhouette that fills a need as functionality is the backbone of the brand, but that is also probably on trend as we do have the classic silhouettes that are already in place. It’s a combination of the two and I will let you in on another one, every time that we launch a new silhouette, a single H rivet that we put on it is on the right corner and it signifies that it is brand new. It’s only on it when we launch it.

AM: I like that, it’s almost like a hidden Mickey when you go to Disney. When you know where to look.

TD: Yeah! I heard of this thing about the first pickle at Disneyland, have you heard about it?

AM: Yeah I had heard something about it!

TD: We have some Disney girls that work for us and if you’re the first one in the park and you run to the pickle vendor, you get the first pickle and then a button! I love Easter Eggs.

AM: Same!

TD: When I was a young kid playing video games and you would bump into the secret doorway or you would have to tap the keys in a certain way to open up another level, we have a lot of those in this brand!

AM: I love it!

TD: This catalog right here is our latest one and it has multiple hidden Easter Eggs inside of it. We have the H rivet on our bags, inside of our bags is a little vintage tag which actually says when it was made, every bag has a secret little red somewhere whether it’s outside or inside, and it goes on and on and on.

AM: That’s so fun because as people grow with the brand, they have these fun things to look for and there’s always something new to unveil which is what makes the brand so exciting.

TD: It is! People want familiarity, I believe and the familiarity is the consistency of our long term silhouettes and the signature of the detail and the high quality in the functionality. So they also want something new and when we launch a pure fashion collection, so right now it’s April, we just came out with a new colorway on the VIP that will only be launched now on that silhouette and when it’s gone it’s gone. So it’s a seasonal exclusive, now we also may have repeat seasonal colorways that we bring back every year and that would be normally on newer silhouettes or on other ones. So next year if a leather is really good and then we have our long time perennial leathers that we use over and over again and that’s what we call our bestseller collection. So we have the combination of the 3 and that really allows us to serve every customers needs.

AM: About how many launches would you say a year are taking place – or drops? Because I always love that in accessories it tends to be different then in apparel.

TD: They design in quarter periods. So this year, we call is 24.1, 24.2, 24.3, and 24.4, but traditionally they would call it I guess, Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter, Holiday, Cruise but within each one of those quarters, we have our monthly collections and within our monthly, we also have our weekly drops. So really, every week we’re dropping a new leather family and/or a new leather family with a new silhouette. Every month we have new combinations of either leather families or silhouettes and for every quarter, we have a new collection that tells a story.

AM: Your Sales Meetings must be interesting because that’s massive!

TD: Well, that’s our design team. I love it and they come up with everything. They get inspired and we’re in our 24.2 which is Summer. By the way, do you know Jose Canseco?

AM: Um of course one of the premier power hitters in MLB with the A’s and played for a number of teams including the Yankees!

TD: Well, our latest catalog as you can see here, this is his daughter Josie (Kygo Feat. Ella Henderson - Here for You video, Kith Park: SS2019 NYFW, The Surreal Life)! She’s adorable and amazing.

AM: When you first were talking about the catalog a few minutes back and I was looking at it, I thought wow Jessica looks really good but I know she is much older then the young girl that is on the cover, but wow that’s her daughter!

TD: That’s Josie, we shot her last month and this catalog is our summer collection and it was inspired by our hometown of Hermosa Beach which is where the brand is born and raised, where I live right now with my son, our offices, and Hermosa is a very eclectic town. It’s right next to Manhattan Beach, but it’s its own personality. They came back and that was about a year ago and they laid out what they thought would be a collection to honor our hometown and she was perfect. We shot her and everything came together in this collection of what I just told you about it. It has monthly drops, it has weekly drops, we had a big launch event on April 4th and that’s the first time that we have done this sort of launch. But it’s about bringing everyone together to honor our little town of Hermosa Beach – it’s been fun.

AM: How do you approach doing collaborations and partnerships. I love the work that you have been dong within Mary Fitzgerald of Netflix's Selling Sunset as I think she’s great and you can see how she is aligned with the brand.

TD: We love Mary, she was truly a fan for a long time like you, she knew Hammitt. She was a real estate agent right here on the South Bay where we’re from and then she went out to the West side and had the show, she already had our bags so she was already wearing them. That’s one way that we do collaborations when it seems to be a match. Another way is when my design team and myself love art! Art is my personal inspiration. I go to Art Basel, whenever I travel I go to a lot of modern museums so does Jeanne so does Collier and we found Alex Alpert who is our latest collaboration and we found him at Art Basel a couple of years ago and we’re launching with him this quarter next month. It’s graffiti and when you at look at the design, it’s actually all Hermosa Beach, it’s our city, its waves, volleyball, our logo and he drew this on leather and then we made it into the collection. And that rivet which you can see is a melting rivet.

AM: Which is pretty cool.

TD: So Alex is a fulltime artist, young, very cool and he has a collaboration that I can’t mention coming out with a global brand. He’s gotten really lucky and I don’t even know if he is even 30 yet! The commonality between Mary and Alex – it’s the ones that we think have a great personality. They love life and we want to really collaborate with people where we enjoy the relationship.

AM: Are there other collaborations that we should also keep an eye out for? Are you thinking about LA28 which is coming up? I could see some amazing things there.

TD: Yeah, so there’s a women’s rally launching in the Fall called the Princess Rally and it’s a 100 women driving sports cars from Southern California up to Northern California and it’s sponsored by Richard Mille, a luxury watch brand. We’re doing a collaboration between us, Richard Mille, and them.

Every September we have what we call the September Issue. We have a collaborative bag that will be coming out for that this year as well. Then at the end of the year, there is an artist that we have a collaboration coming out with and she is a print artist and that’s Dani Dazey. She has already posted about it and she's lovely! She’s so great and she did a beautiful print and we have a whole collection that we will be dropping before the end of the year with her. We’re already working on our collaborations for ’25.

AM: Haha I’m always thinking of something. Being that my background is in fashion, being a Fashion Stylist, as well as being an Accessory Expert, I love seeing true collaborations between people or brands that are amazing on their own, but when they are brought together, you truly have a whole new way of looking at something that you really appreciate.

TD: You know, it’s wonderful right? One of the things that we do is these pop-ups as we have 3 retail stores – Manhattan Beach, South Coast Plaza, and Le Jolla here in California. For Women’s Month in March last month, every Saturday, there were 5 of them and across 3 stores, we had 15 pop-ups of small artisans – candlemakers, hatmakers, flowers, and permanent jewelry. They came and set up in our stores on a Saturday and we welcomed in our customers to meet them and they brought their fans and we had champagne, drinks, and music pumping. It was a really great atmosphere and we will be bringing in a lot more of that as we go on throughout the year. It was very successful.

AM: Do you do pop-ups outside of California like here in NY? Or are you thinking of making a store in NY?

TD: We have had pop-ups throughout the country, not in the traditional open for 2 month set up. But we have sat inside a Kendra Scott store in The Hamptons or back in their hometown. We have been invited to do trunk shows all over the country with our retail partners and we still do. We just celebrated National Hammitt Day with our largest partner on a Saturday and they had a small gift for all of their clients and it was a lot of fun. NYC, it’s still on my map and my bucket list. In our earliest day, we used to do a week in the windows of Henri Bendel for Hammitt when they were around.

AM: I remember! I loved that store and still miss it!

TD: I loved it too and I liked us being there. So I have always wanted to come back to NY in style and be on 5th Ave for our own pop-up and it will happen one day!

AM: That is so amazing and I can’t wait for that. Are there any pop-ups in your local area that you want to share that are taking place this Spring or Summer that we can keep an eye out for for our readers?

TD: I would say that in our 3 stores at least 1 to 2 times a month we have small artisans and makers that will be coming in and so look out for those. On May 17th is our Annual Investors Day. So we did a crowd funding and we have a lot of collectors who invested and we are bringing them all together and it’s a day of joy and fun. We can share our results and what we’re doing moving forward. This will be the first time that we have done that. So this will be great. Then once a year we usually have an in-person event that is in Nov where people fly in from all over the country and it’s a theme. Last year’s was Mama Mia and it was a Greek theme and people get to come and be in that theme to have fun, food, and great cocktails. It’s also a great way for them to be able to see all of our latest designs.

AM: Obviously as we’ve been talking, it’s a women’s brand, but there are a lot of pieces that translate for a man as well. Would you ever create a men’s capsule collection or go in that direction in some way?

TD: [Smiles]

AM: I thought so!

TD: I don’t know, maybe you’re on to something haha!

AM: What have been some of the things that you have been proud of for this brand?

TD: I mean, I’m always the proudest when someone comes up to me and tells me how much they have loved my Hammitt. It’s always what they do with them, where they traveled, who they got it from, what memories they have created, and the second piece of it is our team! I was so proud of Angel who was just in NYC.

AM: Yup, I saw him and had the chance to chat with him at the Accessories Council event at Tin Building by Jean-Georges.

TD: He started at our retail store 3 years ago and I asked him what he wanted to do and he told me that he wanted to work at our headquarters. I said great and I told him that when he was ready, let’s go.

AM: What are things that are taking place with the brand whether it’s holiday season or whatever that you’re able to share that it longer term that we can keep an eye out for.

TD: I just saw our Holiday collection. It just came in and it’s mind blowing. It’s the colors, the textures, and it’s going to take it to another level and is a celebration of who we are. I gave you the secrets of Fall – the Princess Rally is going to be great, our September Issue, wait until you see it. That’s all I can give you for now!

IG @hammittla

@styleprofit

PHOTOGRAPHY CREDITS | Hammitt

Read the APR ISSUE #100 of Athleisure Mag and see THE JOY OF ACCESSORIES | Tony Drockton, Hammitt in mag.

BINGELY BOOKS

HAWAI'I GOLD: A CELEBRATION OF SURFING

Rizzoli

Carissa Moore

We had the pleasure of having Carissa Moore a Team USA Olympic Surfing Gold Medalist and 5X World Surf League Women's Champion as our FEB ISSUE #86 cover. We have always enjoyed seeing her compete and how she does so with a smile on her face!

Hawai'i Gold: A Celebration of Surfing shares her story and what she thinks about her sport, her love of Hawaii as well as surf legends on what it means to be a surfer from Hawaii.

In this book, we find out about the heritage of surfing in Hawaii and of course the images in the book include the island, surf icons, surf prep, and so much more. It's defintiely a book that you will find on your coffee table that everyone will want to look through when they stop by.

EVEREST, INC.: THE RENEGADES AND ROGUES WHO BUILT AN INDUSTRY AT THE TOP OF THE WORLD

Gallery Books

Will Cockrell

We know about those who climb Mount Everest and in Everest, Inc. The Renegades and Rogues Who Built an Industry at the Top of the World, we get to know more about those who are instrumental in that effort - the guides and climbers!

We know that making the climb is not for the faint at heart as there is bad weather, severe altitudes, and it is congested for a number of people who make the attempt whether it's ego driven or to add to their social feeds.

The trip also has an impact on those who don't respect the mountain by leaving trash behind or even exploiting local Sherpas.

This book has a comprehensive focus on the history of the Himalayan guiding industry which started in the 1980's with gritty entrepreneurs who wanted to create a new style of expedition planning. You'll find quotes by those in the industry, writers, filmmakers, and Hollywood notables. All share their thoughts on the climbs to add their thoughts to this portion of the industry.

FASHION'S BIG NIGHT OUT: A MET GALA LOOKBOOK

Welbeck Publishing

Kristen Bateman

The first Mon of May is fashion's biggest night known as The Met Gala and in Fashion's Big Night Out: A Met Gala Lookbook, we look at a legendary event that fuses art, fashion and pop culture. You will learn about its history through imagery which started in 1948. It also looks at the ensembles that hit the carpet based on theme. There is also a foreward by iconic designer, Jeremy Scott who has created a number of looks for this event.

Read the APR ISSUE #100 of Athleisure Mag and see BINGELY BOOKS in mag.

63MIX ROUTIN3S | TONY DROCKTON

Read the APR ISSUE #100 of Athleisure Mag and see 63MIX ROUTIN3S | Tony Drockton in mag.

63MIX ROUTIN3S | JOSIE NATORI

Read the APR ISSUE #100 of Athleisure Mag and see 63MIX ROUTIN3S | Josie Natori in mag.

NEW YORK FASHION WEEK FW2024 EDIT

This month, we attended a number of NYFW FW24 shows which is a great way to see the upcoming collections from an array of designers that are on our radar. We kicked off the season with New York Men's Day - NYMD on Feb 9th that presented its 21st season of 8 designers between the morning and afternoon session at Location05 in Hudson Yards.

NYMD | TERRY SINGH

We started off with Terry Singh's presentation with his namesake collection for his menswear brand that launched in 2014 and is based in NYC. Terry was raised in NYC and began working in the fashion industry in the '70s. He also took some time to go to India where he immersed himself into Indian culture as well as meditation. He returned to the city with his shift in how he approached his life and wanted to take what he learned to bring it to make his mark in fashion.

Terry feels that, "this collection resonated with the narrative of my odyssey, visually manifesting the metamorphosis that defines who I am today."

The collection included a number of pieces that included blazers, outerwear, structured skirts, intricate fabrications and coordinates. It was a rich tapestry that allowed us to see where menswear as well as genderless looks can be elevated for gala and soiree looks.

IG @newyorkmensday

@terrysingh.nyc

PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY | PG 98 Terry Singh

NYMD | Y.CHROMA

The 4 designers that presented their collection in the morning of NYMD, showcased collections that included suiting and eveningwear. We were also excited to check out Y.Chroma, founded by Max Israel! This brand was founded in 2023 in Lisbon, Portugual.

The collection is focused on male midlife re-invention with a customer base of 40+ and want to wear vibrant hues. The European crafstmanship was evident in seeing this collection and we truly enjoyed the unique textiles that were included in this show and still presented a youthful collection that we could totally see being worn by those that are outside of the intended demographic. We love how they embrace midlife reinvention and the universal appeal of this brand!

IG @y.chroma.apparel

PHOTOGRAPHY Courtesy | PG 101 Y.Chroma

BACKSTAGE PRABAL GURUNG

We left Location05 to pop out to cover Backstage at Prabal Gurung who showed at the Starrett-Lehigh Building. Being backstage allows you to see how the inspiration for the designer's vision comes together for the hair, makeup, and nail teams.

The inspiration behind Prabal Gurung's comes from the loss in his home country of Nepal where he created silhouettes that offered a balance of warmth and melancholy through tactile fabrics that were sculpted and ethereal.

“It was to give into grief,” Gurung said backstage. “That was a new thing for me, but I decided to give in simply because that was the only way that I could go through it, which took me back to my father’s side of the family — which I normally have stayed away from, to be completely honest — and it led to these images and everything. It was just so cathartic and so healing, so I brought this to life because it gave me comfort.”

To merge the gravity of the somberness of the inspiration of the show, there was still a balance with his signature feminine styles by incorporating fringe and drapery. These ethereal elements gave a sense of uplifting ones spirit.

The apparel that hit the runway was supported by a glam team that worked with the models, Super Models such as Precious Lee, and celebs such as Sarita Choudhury (Homeland, Blindspot, And Just Like That...). We had the pleasure to chat with Celebrity Nail Artist, Gina Edwards who is the Kiss Product Inc U.S/Canada Brand Ambassador and Lead Nail Artist for this show. In addition to her role with these products, she has worked with Chanel Beauty on a Valentine's Campaign, she was the manicurist for Nicole Kidman for her Balenciaga Ambassador imagery, and was the manicurist for Vera Wang for her CFDA Award to name a few.

We wanted to find out how she extended Prabal's vision into the nails that worn by the models who were part of the runway show.

ATHLEISURE MAG: We always love going backstage to see the magic come together and we've been watching the models as they're in prep to hit the runway. We know that you used acrylic nails to create this look. Can you tell us more about this?

GINA EDWARDS: For the show, we used these acrylics in nude in XXL and we stiletto’d it out to be coffin shaped. We just created the color over it to give it that exclusivity that is the theme of this show. The look whether it’s the red or the silver is a bit of a moonstone/cat eye effect. When you look at it one way, it has one color and then another, you see the other one. It’s a bit of a haunting effect and that ties into the makeup that has that smokey and sultry look to it. So the nails really add to that vibe. It’s amazing to see how everything comes together. The designer has a vision and he explained it to the glam team of hair, makeup, and nails. So we came up with this idea and everyone loves it and along the way, you tweak it to get it to where you see it today.

AM: How long did it take for you to arrive to what we’re seeing on the runway for tonight’s show as it’s a collaboration between Prabal's vision of where he sees it and how you’re interpreting the theme?

GE: Well, there was about 2 weeks when you’re having the conversations and when you land on what you think will work and then you get the products in and to be able to create what has been decided on. Once you select the teams that will actually execute it, I would say it’s about 5 days.

The elusive nail which was the theme for the show was inspired by the experimental use of fabrics in Prabal's collection. The magnetic, cat-eye finish on the KISS nails really merge that eccentric and elusive element together to create that haunting look which is in keeping with this collection which is known as, Fragmented Memories.

AM: Oh wow and there’s so much work to build the nails!

GE: Oh yeah, I mean, shaping takes the most time! I mean shape is everything when it comes to the nail. You have to shape the nail, look at, then look at it from the birds eye view. It looks one way when you see it from one standpoint and then another and then, this nail isn’t on you so it’s a lot of work to really articulate the nail.

You can get The Magnetic Effect Manicure at home which is one of the hottest trends from the runway. Using KISS Gel Fantasy Magnetic collection in style Ruler or imPRESS Color Press-On Manicure in style Red Velvet you too can rock these stunning nails from Prabal’s show in minutes. These ready-to-wear styles are easy to apply and last up to a week.

HOW GINA EDWARDS CREATED THE CUSTOM-DESIGNED RUNWAY LOOK:

• Step 1: Select and size KISS Salon Acrylic Natural Nails in style Crystal and shape to stiletto

Natural Nails in style Crystal and shape to stiletto

• Step 2: Apply nail glue to belly of the nail and natural nail, then press down gently, repeat x10 nails

• Step 3: Apply a coat of your favorite magnetic color and use magnet on both sides parallel to the nail. Cure each finger for 90 seconds

• Step 4: Apply second coat and use the magnet again to see the glass like effect on the nails. Cure for 90 seconds.

• Step 5: Add top gel coat and cure for 60 seconds.

IG @prabalgurung

@ginaedwards_

@kissproducts

PHOTOGRAPHY | PG 102 + 103 Go Runway.com

After spending a few hours at Prabal Gurung's backstage courtesy of Gina Edwards and the KISS Products team, we made our way back to Location05 for the second session of NYMD and the designers that were showing during this presentation.

NYMD | THE SALTING

Designers Michael Ward & Manel Garcia Espejo founded The Salting, a menswear/womenswear brand in 2018 and is based in NYC. With their second presentation at NYMD as well as being recently inducted into the CFDA as interim members, they are carried in approximately 20 locations in the US and Canada including Bergdorf Goodman.

They're fabrications are globally sourced with sustainable mills and all of their tailoring is done in the US. This design duo has an extensive background in fashion design in the luxury space.

This season's collection's inspiration is On The Waterfront and has an aesthetic that honors longshoremen and dockworkers with its use of buffalo checks, plaid, tweeds, chalk stripes and more. Even their sportswear showcases their tailored DNA and we enjoyed their classic pea coats and other structured pieces.

IG @thesaltingnyc

PAS UNE MARQUE

In 2018, Sean Coutts founded menswear label, Pas Une Marque in Paris. The brand's entire manufacturing takes place in Peru. Within each of their collections, they work with a number of artists to tell their brand story. Printemps, the first department store in Paris, carries the brand. We loved the outerwear that was included in this show and can't wait to see more from this brand.

IG @pasunemarque

We had a bit of snow that hit NYC, but with 2 shows that we had been looking forward to from 2 Project Runway alums, we were ready to be dazzled by their NYFW FW24 collections.

BISHME CROMARTIE

The afternoon of Feb 13th, we made our way to The Ritz-Carlton New York, NoMad to see Bishme Cromartie's NYFW FW24 presentation. We first learned about Bishme when he competed on Season 17 of Project Runway where he came in 4th. For Season 20 of Project Runway All-Stars, he came back and won! It was amazing to see a number of our favorite designers across the season on this show and the ability to see Bishme push the boundaries of Avante Garde to his self-proclaimed, Street Garde, has been a great evolution.

His brand has been worn on a number of red carpets by Michelle Williams (American Soul, Wrath: A Seven Deadly Sins Story, Kingdom Business) of Destiny's Child, Chloe Bailey (Grown-ish, Swarm, Praise This), and Jennifer Hudson (Cats, The Jennifer Hudson Show, Respect), to name a few.

This presentation had a palette of red, white, and black and spanned from elevated streetwear all the way to red carpet looks during Awards Season.

When asked about where the inspiration from his show came from, he shared, "I further explored my obsession of mixing Streetwear with Avant Garde designs. Striking, feminine and bold shapes paired with a variety of coats, edgy tops, form fitting and dramatic gowns. I continued to define what “Street Garde'' is by staying true to my aesthetic and testing new ideas. I wanted the collection to feel strong, effortlessly sexy, masculine, and feminine at the same time. The collection showcases the Bishme Cromartie woman who is ready for change, constantly on the go and loves to stand out, no matter where she is. This season we are entering the Batrix."

IG @bishme_cromartie

PHOTOGRAPHY | PG 104 - 108 Paul Farkas |

LAURENCE BASSE

We ended our NYFW FW24 shows the evening of Feb 13th with Project Runway alum, Laurence Basse who was a finalist in both Season 15 as well Season 20 for Project Runway All-Stars. We have been a long time fan of her mastery of leatherwork and in seeing her first solo show at The Paramount Building in Times Square, we were thrilled to be able to talk to her in detail about how she got into the industry, her namesake line, her NYFW show, and what we can expect from her as she continues to push the envelope of her brand.

ATHLEISURE MAG: It is such a pleasure to be able to talk with you as I’ve been a fan of your work and aesthetic!

LAURENCE BASSE: Thank you so much, thank you! I really appreciate you having me.

AM: Of course! I have been a fan of yours since I first saw you on Season 15 of Project Runway, and just your artistry, the way you work with leather, your style, and attitude – everything about you is definitely Black Girl Magic.

LB: Oh I’m trying, I’m trying.

AM: Oh no, you are not trying, you are doing!

So you got your start in the industry as a model. You have modeled with BENNETTON, Jean Paul Gautier, and you have been in French Elle as well as Cosmopolitan. You did this for 15 years, what was the moment that you realized you wanted to be a fashion designer.

LB: Well I mean, this is the narrative in the streets, but really, I went to fashion school in Paris before I was even modeling. I started fashion school when I was 17 years old. So from 17 – 22, I was in fashion school and I started modeling when I was in Paris I think 3 years into fashion school. It was just there and I thought, “why not?” I used that to then move to the US and it became a 15 year off and on.

AM: Where did you go to school?

LB: I went to school, my first one was in Normandy called Elisa Lemonnier and then I went to another school in Paris, an art school by the same name at the 12 Arrondissement.

AM: When I first saw you in Season 15 of Project Runway, I was just blown away by what you did throughout that season. What drew you to compete on the show?

LB: You know, let’s just say that I never casted for the show. I never did. I quit modeling, I was in LA, I was bartending, and I had my studio, but I was like, ok, since I didn’t do the designing the way that they are saying which is you get out of school and you go work for a brand, and I didn’t do that. I was modeling, traveling, and living my best life.

So at this point, I was 35, I had started this thing, but how do I go from zero to 50 at least? I had a friend of mine that was a Super Model back in the days in France and she actually reached out to me a year before my season to do the French version of Project Runway in France, and I said, "hell, no! I'm not doing a reality show blah blah blah boom boom boom – not when it comes to designing.”

Time went by and I got an email after that from the US. They told me that they were casting for Project Runway. My first reaction, “hell, no!” I’m not doing this. But my friend was with me and she was like, “Laurence it is a good opportunity and you should do it.” I didn’t say no. I literally waited until the deadline. If the deadline was like Mar. 30th at midnight, I waited until the deadline to submit whatever it was that they were asking me.

Then they called me back. I didn’t know that they had already had a casting in the US. So I thought that I was going in for the casting, but it had already been done. I went straight to the final 2 appointments that they had before they decided on who they wanted to have on the show. I went in and I brought in like 10 pair of clothes and they loved it and after that, they asked me to come in the next day. The next day was a whole hour – hour and a half interview. That’s when they say, ok we know you can sew, we love you, but as far as your personality, they have to figure that out.

I did my interview for a little over an hour and it went well I think. I was good! The lady told me, “Laurence, if you made it this far it means you’re perfect for this show. But If we do not cast you for this season, please come back next season.” I told her, “I won’t be coming back.” If I make it, great and if I don’t, I’m still happy. I literally left the casting and I literally left the casting and I was going to my car in LA and I was like dancing in the parking lot. It was an investment for me. It’s already mine and if not, it’s ok too. Then they called me and that’s how I made it onto the show.

AM: I’m glad that you did because the moment you started creating dynamic pieces and watching how you work with leather beyond what I have seen anyone else do – it was phenomenal to watch. As a fashion stylist and someone who has grown up in this industry from a young age – watching you make leather do things that we don’t think that that fabrication supports usually, I was like, “where did this women come from?” I became obsessed and it was thrilling to see you be a finalist on that season.

LB: Thank you!

AM: And then when it came to Season 20 that aired last year with Project Runway All-Stars, what were you thinking about coming back to this crazy environment of a competition show?

LB: Oh yeah, it’s definitely crazy!

So basically, the first time that I went, I didn’t know what I was expecting. I went in and I thought to myself, I am going to win. There was no other option and then I didn’t win. So I went home and I thought, “what am I going to do now?” But God has other plans. With the show rolling, it just jump started my career. I have just been going ever sense since that. It did a lot of things that were great for me. So when the second time came around, I thought, never again would I do a show like that. Right?

AM: Yeah!

LB: But, the only reason and again, they came back and said, “Laurence, do you want to jump on a call? We’re thinking of doing All-Stars.” I said sure and got on the call. But I wasn’t like, “yay!” I had to pause and think about it. Like I said, it did great for me, they have their own agenda and I went in with my own. Even when I accepted to do it, and I did it because it was All-Stars. It was about the contestants coming back to compete for something bigger. So I was like ok, this can’t hurt me and it can only reboost the machine. So I went in and I remember I said, “my head said that the best position for me to land was to be a runner-up.” Technically, I don’t want to win because I don’t want to be tied into anything.

But my ego, wanted to win the whole thing. The ego is the one that got hurt, but everything happened the way that it was supposed to happen. I did what I wanted to do and it was ok.

AM: Well, you turned out amazing pieces yet again!

LB: I was like, keep playing in my face!

AM: I love it!

So why do you like working with leather? Your mastery of leather is just insane.

LB: Thank you!

Well, I’m self-taught when it comes to leather. But my background is really haute couture, making the dresses and all of the extravagant things that people like to wear. I was like, everyone is doing this – a lot of people are doing it. I wanted to be different. I don’t want to be in the norm. I wanted to know what was out there that I could do and work with that I could separate myself from most designers. So I was thinking about leather for 2 reasons. As a child, when I was younger, leather was – when I would look at people who owned leather, they were rich. It was something that, yes I wanted it. But I couldn’t afford it. Then, before that, I love luxury. All of the stuff that I love when I go to the stores, it gives me a real headache! Because it’s $5,000, $6,000, and $10,000! I’d look at it and I’d say, “I can’t do it!” So I decided let me teach myself how to do this and I am going to do it better and I'm going to do it as a challenge to myself. I thought, “ok, all the stuff that I love the Balmain, Saint Laurent, the Gucci, the Tom Ford – it’s over overpriced,”, but look who’s talking now?

It's overpriced, but I’m going to one day sell my stuff at the same price as those people. I’ll be up there with them and that was the bet to myself. So, then leather when people think about it, they think it’s rigid and that there’s not a lot of what you can do with it. But for me, I was like, I’m going to get in there – me and leather are going to have a talk and we’re going to get to know each other. Now I know leather pretty well and I work it like it’s any kind of fabric. There’s no limitation to it. If you want a wedding dress, I’ll make your wedding dress in leather. If you want a flowy skirt or whatever it is, I just don’t want to put limitations on it.

AM: Well you are a master at it. You work a leather like it’s a silk or a taffeta and before you, I had never seen people treat it that way!

LB: That was the goal.

AM: How would you describe your brand your line. You have a number of NBA athletes and different celebrities that have worn your collection.

LB: Well my line, my line is definitely – it’s not haute couture, I’m not RTW. I’m somewhere in between so it’s a luxury brand catered to strong women and strong men. It’s very – for me it’s normal – but the stuff that I put together, they’re not supposed to exist in the same world. But they work for me, because it’s just an extension of me – female/male, cold/hot, edgy/soft – I just love to mix the two together.

AM: What are 3 core pieces that if someone was purchasing pieces from you for the first time that they would be essentials to have in their closet?

LB: Oh you have to have a classic leather jacket. The classic LB is the one with the shoulders. I have been rocking that one for the past x amount of years. You would think that I have a lot of leather jackets, right?

AM: Oh yeah!

LB: I have probably 3 but I recycle them. I have this one that’s like a Motorcycle Jacket with the shoulders and it’s classic and I love it! So, either that one or a Bomber – whatever classic is to you. A pair of leather gloves, and a jumpsuit!

You don’t even need 3, if you like to have just one, it’s either a leather jacket or a jumpsuit. If you can’t afford it, get a pair of gloves!

AM: There’s a solution and then keep saving your coins to get one of those pieces!

LB: Exactly!

AM: My Co-Founder and I had the pleasure of going to your NYFW FW24 show! My mouth was on the floor throughout the runway show and I even teared up a bit because the craftsmanship of seeing great pieces always transports me.

LB: Thank you!

AM: What was the inspiration behind this collection?

LB: You know, I always tell people that the place I design from it’s I guess a storytelling place, but it’s like I tell my stories by creating. That’s my communication. I don’t sometimes put words into it. I don’t always have a story, but for this one, it started with one piece – a Bulletproof Vest. With everything that is going on in the world, you know – all the crazy stuff, the wars, but if you stay in it, you go crazy. So we still have to find other beautiful things in the world that is going on. So it was a mix of the two. The leather Bulletproof Vest – that’s why I mixed it with the soft and beautiful flowy stuff. I got it from that piece and I just let it flow.

AM: I’m sure it was such a project to undertake, a solo show during NYFW!

LB: Girl, it was insane!

AM: Days leading up to your show, I was on your IG and I could see that there were a lot of moving parts going on. It definitely built up the anticipation, but I know you must have been spending a lot of time getting all those things together.

LB: My God! One day I will tell that story. But we kind of documented everything on film – not everything, because sometimes you don’t think about it. It was by far one of the hardest things that I had ever done. I self-financed it, I had a great team, but me and Mykel, we were both wearing different hats and I had to try and stay kind of zen and to be able to create. I mean, I made all of my samples. There was no team, that’s maybe for next season. But we literally decided because Project Runway All-Stars wrapped in Sept. and technically, we were already at Fashion Week. So I thought, “ok, it doesn’t make sense for me to do a collection in Sept.” But really, if I wanted to wait until I was ready to do it, I should have waited until the following Sept. But then I thought, “no because while things are still hot, I can’t skip Feb.” So we decided that we had 2.5 months to do it. We didn’t know how, we just went by faith. It was like, I believe in you, you believe in me and we just jumped out of the building with no parachute and we hoped that it would land.

AM: What other projects do you have going on now that we can look forward to or that we can keep an eye out for?

LB: Well right now, everything is moving so fast, we are getting our appointments together – so the sales teams so that we can start getting into production and getting into stores. So we will do that in Mar. and we have Market week coming up and April, back thinking about Fashion Week in Sept. So for that, we want to take this to Paris. So the goal is to do Paris Fashion Week and NYFW.

AM: What do you want your legacy to be as you have done a lot and I can only imagine what you will still do with yourself and your brand. But you are a trailblazer and a role model, because there are still not a lot of visible Black people that own luxury brand and especially in the fashion space. That’s something great to see you do unapologetically and in your own style.

LB: Absolutely, like I tell people, it was super important for me growing up in France and even being here, all you hear is people telling us what we can and cannot do and how far we can dream. It’s like when I used to tell people when I was in school to my teachers, they would look at you and roll their eyes. They would tell you to come back down, to be real, and those jobs aren’t for you.

AM: Yup.

LB: And because you said that, that’s why I tell people that I know that I am a Black woman and it’s not going to be easy and that I will have to work 10X harder than the next one because they already have a leg up. I know that and I’m at peace with that. I’m strong. I’m going to knock all of those doors down until I get to where I need to be.

When I went to Italy and they are the kings of leather, how they received and reacted to my work, I looked at their reflection in my eyes and I knew that I had it. I just want my people, or even any people, but especially my people to see me and look at me like, she did it. The hard part of it, I will tell my story and write my book one day about it. I want people to look at me and know that it’s possible. Sometimes, all you need is 1!

I’m not doing it just because I love fashion. I could be ok and I have done a lot and I can be content. But no, I need to continue forward and that's what I want my legacy to be. Because when I have to think of a high end Black designer, I have to do some research and think about it and that’s not normal.

For me, we are fashion.

AM: Absolutely!

LB: Seriously, I look at Christian Dior today, Balmain, and Gucci with the stuff that they are doing now, if you told me 20 years ago that this is where they are going, I would have said you’re dreaming!

AM: 100%

LB: But they’re taking those aesthetics, and we’re not getting credit for it. And then we go and give them our money. I think one of the mistakes I think sometimes we do as Black people when we enter that industry, we set limitations. Money is money wherever it comes from, I don’t care. I’m designing for whoever loves fashion.

I tell people that I am Black everyday, we don’t have to debate about that. But, you need to think about how you move. Hire your people – that is where the power is. Where the money comes from like I don’t care. My clients are everywhere. They’re European, American, African, wherever I don’t care. They love fashion and that is what we’re going to talk about. That is the business model of what everyone is doing. You’re presenting a good or service and then via marketing, you’re able to translate that story; however, the offering is universal.

IG @laurencebasse

PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY | Laurence Basse

Read the FEB ISSUE #99 of Athleisure Mag and see NEW YORK FASHION WEEK FW2024 EDIT in mag.

9LIST STORI3S | LAURENCE BASSE

Read the FEB ISSUE #98 of Athleisure Mag and see 9LIST STORI3S | Laurence Basse in mag.

9LOOKS | MONCLER GRENOBLE

Read the FEB ISSUE #98 and see 9LOOKS | Moncler Grenoble in mag.