As you know, NYFW happens 2 times a year as it looks ahead to the Fall/Winter collections as well as those in the Spring/Summer. It's a time for the fashion community of editors, retailers, buyers, celebs, socialites, and enthusiasts to come together as they navgate a hectic series of days that include presentations, runway shows, previews, lunches, dinners, and after parties. By attending these functions, you get a bird's eye view on what to expect in terms of trends, silhouettes, hues and more. What we see here in NY will mirror or extend into what takes place for the other fashion calendars that occur in London, Milan, and Paris (you'll also see that those shows may also add elements as well). You can see the top colors from NYFW SS25 via our friends at Pantone.
This month, we hit the shows and as we enjoy sharing with you a selection of what we saw in Mens and Womens fashion this season here in NY, we'll highlight these shows. In addition, it's always fun when we cover the Backstage of a show as it allows us to see how the look and creative direction includes other facets of the overall look.
We kicked off NYFW with New York Men's Day which allows you to see a series of designers throughout the day via presentations or hybrid presentation/runway shows that are divided by a morning as well as an afternoon session. In addition to designers that showed (A. POTTS, Clara Son, Earthling VIP, Sivan, The Salting, of—nothing, Sermon Series, STAN, Tarpley, and Terry Singh), we also enjoyed vignettes where sponsors Sperry and Victorinox were also in these studios. The designers that showed their presentations also collaborated with Victorinox on designing cases that were within the vein of their collection for the upcoming season which were on display.
THE SALTING SS25
For the presentation/hybrid runway show of The Salting, we were transported to an Italian seaside complete with a dock that the models stood on for this genderless collection. The weather worn hues of blues, charcoal, olive, neutrals, and carnelian were seen throughout the collection and models. This nautical sensability was amplified with choice accessories that included large intricately knotted brooches, hats, and other details that made this feel like a line that you could wear for a number of moments in your lifestyle. The use of floral prints and seersucker was a visual texture that we found pleasing whether we saw the collection together during the presentation or separately when they did their runway portion.
CFDA designers Michael Ward and Manel Garcia Espejo noted that they were, "celebrating the Italian seaside and Italian life - village life by the sea. We leaned into '60s and '70s Italian film and we studied mostly Luchino Visconti (Death in Venice, Ludwig, The Stranger), Federico Fellini (8 ½, La Dolce Vita, Ginger and Fred) and we pulled a lot from the film Death in Venice - the opulence of it, and we landed with this."
Without a question, this was a collection that we truly enjoyed seeing and dare we say, our favorite.
CLARA SON SS25
This menswear presentation leaned into a dream Clara Son had on her bicycle and the elements of nature that she rode beside which is seen in the color palette of this assortment that gives a nod to the coastal area with mountains, rocks, and flowers for her Reminiscence collection.The lines was enhanced with biker hats, seats, and functional bags.
EARTHLING.VIP SS25
Part of enjoying a show is how it is presented to you and as soon as we saw multiple frames in the studio space with models walking in and out of them at various points, we were really excited about seeing the menswear and womenswear that were part of this show that included embellished denim, leather jackets, graphic tees and hardware laden leather weekender bags for a rocker on holiday vibe for this LA based brand.
STAN SS25
Another show of note to share from NYMD comes from STAN a line that is handcrafted in LA by designer and Co-Founder, Tristan Detwiler who is a, "craftsman by trade. My medium: dirt stained remnant of tattered, worn textiles, ingrained with stries of hand woven fibers. There is history awaiting discovery, buried in the deepest corners of the world. A medium that allows me to peer into faraway culture, ritual, religion, and family heritage. I live in perpetural search for such things. Stories relayed from the past; translated through centuries. The goal of STAN is to re-contextualize long lost memories to live on." He has a passopn for sustainable and meaningful practice in fashion as we continue to navigate those that are mass produced and involved in greenwashing.
This SS25 collection is made from 100% sustainable materials that includes deadstock and recycled fabrics. In terms of his work as a whole, he enjoys upcycling vintage quilts to make a one of a kind garment and has used antique fabrucs, bed linens, and grain sacks. This allows him to search the world for rare materials that then become translated into his beachy assortment of sets, outerwear, and separates.
This season, a robe-style coat was made from Portuguese wool blankets from the early 20th century and striped suits were made from 19th century-style French ticking fabric. This material would traditionally be found in matress covers. Embellished pieces from this collection came from vintage beads and crystals that were sourced from his mother who was a jewelry designer in the '80s.
CHUKS COLLINS SS25
Prior to attending Chuks Collins SS25 presentation that was held at Chelsea Factory, we met him at the South African Consulate General. In addition to being a designer, he is the Co-Founder of The African Fashion Council which was hosting 5 designers who had a compilation show the day after his. During the press conference/mixer, we met the 2024 Jaguar South Africa x #GiveHerACrown designers (Gugu Peteni of Gugubygugu; Tsakani Mashaba of HAMETHOP, Thando Ntuli of MUNKUS, Manthe Ribane of her namesake brand, and Keneilwe Mothoa of Neimil) and listened to an engaging Q+A that was moderated by former Essence Editor in Chief, Constance White. Being able to hear about their brand, how the created, the challenges that they face, and what is on the horizon for them was truly interesting. We also heard from members of the South African Consulate General as well as they were the hosts in partnership with Jaguar South Africa of this mixer which includes wines from the region and esteemed guests of both brands. The importance of introducing South African designers and having their work seen at NYFW was a huge part of the initiative.
Chuks Collins spoke at this event and was excited to share these artists that we would see later in the week. When we arrived at his show, we saw an array of looks that blended African and Western design as well as a mix of tradition and modernity. He noted that he was, "grateful for the opportunity to keep creating and expressing myself through my work. This collection means a lot to me, and the homecoming process has been very healing for me. The collection is deeply inspired by my African and Western roots, reflecting a blend of cultures and experiences. Having grown up in Africa and Europe, and now living in the US, I have been empowered and nurtured by many have been empowered and nurtured by many women, including my grandmother, who taught me how to sew. This cultural tapestry forms the foundation of 'Nné,' infusing each piece with rich narratives and a deep sense of heritage.”
FREDERICK ANDERSON SS25
We also attended Frederick Anderson's SS25 show which was held at the DiMenna Center for Classical Music at the Baryshnikov Arts Center. This collection was inspired by his travels through Northern Africa and how he connects to his experiences there. Looks that hit the runway included lightweight garments as well as those that have stunning lace and beaded ensembles. The visual texture that was included on the runway really let you see his cohesive story.
IG @frederickanderson_designer
BACKSTAGE | BRUCEGLEN SS25
We enjoy attending shows, but it's also great to be able to head backstage to see how the look is coming together. We made our way to the Gansevoort Hotel in the Meatpacking District to see BruceGlen's line which is known for vibrant color and is designed by twin brothers! This season, with a theme of Out of the Blue, there was a bit of whimsy and childlike wonder with the looks that were part of this presentation!
We sat down with Celebrity Manicurist, Miss Pop whose work has been in countless NYFW as well as global Fashion Weeks, editorials of a number of magazines, and celebs that have included Gwen Stefani, Janelle Monae, Ariana Grande, and Beanie Feldstein. We wanted to know about how she came to being a Celebrity Nail Artist, why she wanted to be part of this show, how the nails are part of this (as well as telling us about another show that she was excited to talk about the nail direction), and she gave us tips on how we can make our nails looks amazing with tips and tools!
MISS POP: I love this on you! Oh my God, are you wearing Ophelia – is this Zoya Ophelia? That was what I was working with yesterday!
ATHLEISURE MAG: No, it’s not.
MP: It’s literally one of the colors that I was working with yesterday that we did on a man.
AM: This is Sundays Nail Studio gel so I don’t know what they call this shade.
MP: I love that place! Amy and I are friends!
AM: I met her a few years ago right when the salon launched in NoMad. She is so sweet!
MP: She is a wonderful human being, I recommend that people go there all the time. I don’t work at a salon, but I always suggest there.
AM: It’s so clean there and so zen.
MP: Well, it’s because she’s a manicurist. It makes a really big difference when you’re a licensed manicurist. You walk in and you’re like, oh all the laws are followed here. I’ve gotten to know her a little bit and I have been there a couple of times and she is lovely!
AM: I love that! Well we’re in the thick of it right now as BruceGlen’s show will be starting shortly and I always love being backstage to see the look come together. Being able to sit down with you to talk about the direction of the nails for this show will definitely be exciting for our readers to know about. Before I delve into that, when did you realize that you wanted to be a Nail Artist?
MP: Oh wow that is a question! I actually got into nails because I was sick and stuck in bed for a couple of years. I was laid flat out in bed so that really limits your options on things that you can do. You know, I had done nail art as a tween. In middle school, I was told that it was distracting to other kids and they made me stop! It was devastating, but I went to a good school and I moved on with my life and then years and years went by and then almost 15 years went by and I got sick. I was stuck in bed and I always loved having my nails, like, bright cherry, my lipstick red every week. But once I got sick, I realized that I had so much time on my hands. I literally started painting my [nails], that was one of the few things I could do. It also made me feel better because when you're recovering. I mean, you see this? I look like this every day but when you're sick, you can't do your hair right or get in my dress. I couldn't do any of the things. I could, normally done, I had meningitis.
AM: Oh my.
MP: And uh, it was just - people wanted to visit me and I was like, visit what? Yeah, what are you visiting? Like it's like I don't have anything good to talk about. I'm like a shell of myself.
AM: Wow!
MP: I can't even watch TV. I can't even tell you what I'm watching on TV because you can't tilt my head. So I was like, what am I gonna do? And then it occurred to me that I could probably paint my nails like this.
AM: Oh wow.
MP: And so, I started doing it that way and then, by the time I picked it up for four hours, I was enrolled in beauty school. It took me like a year and a half to get there but I did it okay?
AM: Absolutely!
MP: I did it because after doing my nails so much I was like, I just want to know how to do it right. So I went to beauty school for my own entertainment and I was on Tumblr when I was sick posting my nails. And I just became friends with nail artists all around the world like Illustrated Nail and there was like a crew of women online that were just like sharing tips and tricks like all of them right now are big nail artists. And we also sort of, like, became friendly and we were trading tips and it was such a beautiful space and so after I went to beauty school, I just was like, you know what, I actually think that I am done. So I went to NYU and then beauty school which is not the financially intelligent order. But uh, here I am.
AM: So what is your favorite part about creating nail art?
MP: Ok, the thing about nail art is, it's really ephemeral. Like I, I want something different every day. It’s the chance to give yourself what you want.
AM: Right.
MP: Right, literally every day, or every week. Yeah, I'm a nail polish girl and Zoya's nail polish. So I really align with the brand. I like natural nails and I wear natural nails because of when I was sick so I'm very conscious about the products I use and I'm allergic to acrylics. So, um, it's a common allergy actually. So what I like, is the opportunity to change and to give myself exactly what I want in the moment and to, like, celebrate the now and the moment! Like, this, the hair, the makeup, all of this - I do that for you. You're welcome. That's how I'd like the world to see me, but the nails I do for me. It’s what I see of myself. So, for me, it’s just an opportunity to complete what I want and to make myself happy to entertain myself.
AM: I mean, that’s amazing!
What's the inspiration behind the nails that are in the BruceGlen show?
MP: Oh my God. So the reason I really wanted to work with BruceGlen was because they're dopamine dressing.
AM: Yeah.
MP: You're so happy when you’re wearing their clothes!
AM: I came in with them on the elevator and you felt it.
MP: Yeah, you’re in their world. I felt just like the the joy coming off of it! Their clothes spark joy. So I really wanted to work with them because I just thought that that was the fashion I want to be part of. Like I think to be able to bring that out in clothes and to make yourself so happy - I mean, that's part of what I like to do with nails!
AM: Absolutely!
MP: Even when I want to wear black nails!
So today their collection is all about dreams and I took the color we're doing today for Zoya is, we're calling it Dream Blue and I keep joking because the name is Walker. That is like, Sleepwalker Blue.
AM: Oh!
MP: That's something because their show is so dreamy and it’s really something that is part of this season which is about fantasy. The idea of stepping outside of this world and going somewhere far more beautiful. I mean not that this world isn't beautiful, but we might be having a moment that isn't.
AM: Exactly!
MP: We might be going through some things.
AM: Exactly.
MP: So that's why we're doing a dreamy blue and having something that is bright and cheerful.
AM: It's beautiful.
MP: And it's like finest.
AM: That's amazing. And, you know, if we were doing - for those of us that might do our nails at home because we're in between sessions, what are three tools we should always have in our kit?
MP: I mean, I only do my nails at home and I highly encourage it.
AM: I think you are fortunate because you are coordinated and a professional! When I do mine, it's all over the place and I wouldn’t let anyone see that!
MP: A lot of people say that but, it took me six months and if you do your nails every week for six months, you'll figure it out. It's all muscle memory. You have 2 hands with the same things on both sides.
AM: Well, both hands are still different.
MP: Yes, you have a dominant hand and that will be your easier hand and I'd be lying. If you look at my Instagram, I'm always taking photos of my left hand, so I would be lying if I told you that my right hand is equal, but I can get it done. Um and I also think you have to be like patient with yourself. Like it's gonna be hard at first, but anything worth learning or doing - you never do it right the first time! This is also paint. It's not - you're not painting yourself with like a tattoo!
AM: Ok, I hear that.
MP: So this is my number one. This was worth the price of admission to be in beauty school. This is this is you need this. So, what I love about this is that it's a paintbrush. This is a Simply Simmons #4, filbert head, short handle.
AM: Oh wow.
MP: Available at Dick Blick, the art supply store, and even Michael's and all of them. And so what I learned at Beauty School, is you dip that in remover - acetone-based remover, non-acetone base remover, really doesn't matter. And that will get in between and clean it off the skin.
AM: Oh, right!
MP: I've been a professional manicurist now since 2012 and I still get polish on everyone's skin that I do. This is what I use.
AM: Okay.
MP: It's also great for like, you know, when you lay a line down and you're like, oh, that wasn't smooth.
AM: Yeah.
MP: Like it's like a jaggedy little you can see where the brush touched, you just go swoop and now you have like a properly even one.
AM: That’s a great tool!
MP: So okay, I just saved you $2,500 going to beauty school, you're welcome.
The other thing I love is Base Coat. I'm using Zoya Anchor Base Coat. I also love, that Zoya has the Naked Manicure Base Coat and their Naked Manicure Perfectors. I like that you can do pink, you can do buff, you can do nudes. It doesn't matter. But they're enriching for your nails. So it's like using a strengthener but it's also like a little bit of a sheer tint.
AM: Yeah.
MP: So I love that and then I apply the color over it. I either wear it bare like that or I color over it.
So the first thing you want to do when you want to give yourself a manicure, is to cleanse your nail bed.
AM: Yup!
MP: I don't go so far as to use alcohol. Some people do or they, buff their nails. But you don’t have to buff your nails. If you just slightly dehydrate the nail bed, you're gonna basically get the same effect without disrupting that. The top layer of your nail is the most keratin rich to me. You don't want to disrupt that unless it's flaking, or peeling.
AM: Right.
MP: So I love Base Coat. So I cleanse my nail bed with a little remover. We're using this Zoya Remove Plus, which is like the greatest. So when you apply using Remove Plus, to first, dehydrate the nail bed. So that when your application goes on, you're starting from a surface that lacks oil, that last debris, it’s a cleansed nailbed. But you know what I also love?
AM: Yeah?
MP: Ok so my other 2 tips I’m going to hit you with. So Cuticle Oil, I know that people are going to think, what does that have to do with my long lasting manicure?
AM: Yup.
MP: It's because it’s not only great for your skin and your hands look good, but your nails getting everything, it needs to stay strong and resilient. And it will make your manicure last a couple extra days if you apply Cuticle Nail Oil every night. The other thing you learn at Beauty School is to seal the free edge. Like every stroke you do, make sure you do it to the rim of your nails and that's a little bit harder, if your nails are below the fingertip. It's still possible and you can always go in with your cleanup brush and get the skin. That’s called Capping the Free Edge.
AM: I love when my manicurist does that!
MP: I like doing it first, not last.
AM: Really, I feel when I have it, it's last.
MP: Because I feel like when you do it last, it gives a little.
AM: Like an edge or a bit of a lift as sometimes I’ve had it where you feel that ridge.
MP: I feel like when you do it at the end it can lay not as smoothly as I want it to.
AM: Yeah, I have had that happen a few times and I find since I wear gels usually, so for 2 weeks it becomes a tactile point that I am constantly touching as it stands out from my nail not visually, but when I am running my finger over it. But I get why you do it in the stage that you do.
MP: Yeah, that’s just me and it’s a personal thing. There are other manicurists that do it the other way. For me, it's just my order of operations, it’s not the standard.
AM: What are the hues for Fall that we should be looking into. For me, regardless of the time of year, I tend to lean towards colors that look like they are black but they are another color. For me Ophelia or the brand I am wearing that look similar to it, although it’s not in that “shade that looks like it could be black”, it’s such a great foggy tone that I love the Brown/Mauvaise of it all. I’m starting to want to play with those deep chocolates as a bit of a switch up.
MP: It’s crazy, because when I saw you, I thought you were wearing Ophelia, which is, what we did yesterday at the THEOPHILIO show yesterday.
AM: I’m so bummed that I missed the backstage and that show, but this season has been hectic and the timing didn’t work. But in looking at the images of the show and the nails, I really loved it!
MP: Do you want me to tell you about those looks because they were so fun!
AM: Yes please!
MP: Ok so first let me talk about the colors of Fall. This is so fun. So for fall right now, we're looking at, I keep calling them, Reality Bites Reds. It's like yeah like what Janeane Garofalo and what Winona Ryder would have worn then circa 1994.
AM: Yup!
MP: It’s all about those Reds and those are gonna change for Spring. We're gonna go right back to Cherry.
AM: Oh yeah.
MP: So get it out in Fall. I also really love, like a chocolate brown, like I've always been a chocolate brown, girl, the nail polish that made me, the shade that changed my life. was Chanel's Vamp.
AM: Same girl, same!
MP: My mom bought it for herself and I took it from her with the matching lipstick and that was it. I was done! My life was made! I was way too young to be wearing lipstick and it didn't matter. I like, okay still to this day, that is the shade.
Now one thing I love about Ophelia this like dark brown is that, people always wonder when they're doing nudes, what nude will match my skin tone, right? That can be a really tricky question to answer. One way to answer that question is to say, well, what color is my hair?
AM: Okay.
MP: You think of your skin as being your neutral, but your hair is a color that's existing in your beauty look. And when you paint your nails, it draws the eye up to your face.
AM: That's true.
MP: Aka, the money maker.
AM: Okay, I’m with you!
MP: So, I love doing nails that are nude or neutral that match my hair color, so I love chocolate brown. And I think that, you know, like if you have jet black hair or jet black nails, it’s a nude neutral that you don’t think of. And it’s a lot easier to match than your skin tone, I think.
AM: That’s really smart and I don’t think that I have heard anyone say that before!
MP: Oh yeah, I was inspired. I put it on Beanie Feldstein (Lady Bird, American Crime Story: Monica Lewinsky, The Humans) that way. Especially when Fall rolls around, it's just the perfect time to get into those chestnut browns, dark chocolate browns, in your case, some deep blue – which is gorgeous!
AM: I love deep blue!
MP: Yeah. You know! It's so fun and the other way I like to eliminate the challenge of how to find the perfect nude for you, because I really do think that that’s hard!
AM: 100%
MP: I never wear a nude because, yeah, I'm just not natural. That's not who I am - natural. That’s s not for me supernatural, now, we're talking. So speaking of supernatural - so yesterday for the show for THEOPHILIO SS25. So we did skin tone, we did Nyssa which is like uh like a caramel and Ophelia which is like a dark chocolate brown. Yeah, honestly I thought you were wearing it. And then over it, we put my favorite Zoya shade Leia which is this sparkly opalescent sheer that turns every shade into opal gorgeous magic! Even if the skin tone and the color you chose isn't perfect, when you add a layer of rainbow over it, you’re catching that opalescence, and it tones it to your skin. Wow. So it's a good cheat and it's also a good trend. Like right now, definitely for Spring you're going to be seeing like even nudes aren't flat.
AM: Right.
MP: We're making them sparkle magic. Like, we're chroming them.
AM: Much like your phone case - love!
MP: Oh, thanks Amazon. Full stop. [Miss Pop is showing behind the scenes images from the show to showcase the nails looks that took place here and here] So here are some shots from yesterday
AM: Yes! That's the color because I said what color is that. It definitely felt like a whimsical edge and it looked beautiful on all of the models!
MP: I know right? So this is what we put, black, um, Willa which is our black. Then over it, we put Apple, which is like a green glitter. This is Carrie, which is a yellow gold, and then this deep purple, which you obviously would love. Um, this is Mimi, and we just use the bottle brush and brush it over the black. So it gave it this like Glam Dimension and then it looked very much like chrome. So like you don't have to go to the salon and get gel, you can with your natural nails, at home, just paint on Zoya in the bottle.
AM: Wow
MP: Look at that. I recommend putting black down first because I think it makes it chromier. It gives you more of that effect. It gives it a dimension. It gives it depth. Like anytime you want to get your glitter dimension like put black down first or dark. It's like it's like the way high contrast works with black and white. Yeah, you're doing that with the glitter.
AM: Wow.
MP: Light and Dark. Black is the absence of light. White is all the colors swirling together and glitter is light catching. So, it's like kind of the same theory.
Now this Is the caramel color I was telling you about and it's an opalescent glitter over it and when you put it on a hand, oh my God. I can't even tell!
AM: I was looking at the pictures and I was stunned!
MP: I’m trying to find you a picture of a woman who had it on her. No, I only had the oh no, it's right here. Like look at that nude. Like that's it. And It is. It's a nude, but it has that Chrome finish. It's like your sunglasses.
AM: I love the effect of these Carrera’s they’re my favorites to wear.
MP: Like I had a minute. So the stylist for that show is Christine Nicholson. And she is brilliant and she's a nail queen like, oh, okay, I've done her nails. Like I've known her for years. I did her nails years ago. She has great nail taste, and she knew exactly what she wanted.
AM: Boom.
MP: So this is the gold glitter and then we actually put it on the men too.
AM: Because I saw that and I said, oh my God, this is amazing. And I'm like, oh!
MP: As you can see, this is Ophelia do you see it and now you know I’m not full of ish? See this color on this guy Thursday. He was delightful. I love his name also.
AM: Her mani looks great.
MP: And the men were so excited to get their nails done. So, I did him and Noah, oh, Moe, I'm sorry. This is Moe. Moe made my Fashion Week.
AM: But even with the leopard print, it looks so good with that.
MP: I was like, is that going to be too much? And then I told myself, no that thought is too much! Do what you want!
AM: It really came together beautifully.
MP: This is Nema and he had the deep purple glitter so it’s subtle. It only catches the light, to me this was more of like a cat eye than a chrome. They were so excited to get their nails done and they were so kind about it. So I told him, you're making my Fashion Week because he was so happy. He was like, “I never get nails.” This is so fun. I love it. Like, look at his hair.
AM: He looks happy.
MP: And then you see the nail. The black is laid down first and then the green is right out of the bottle. This color is called Apple.
Oh that Jawaraw.
AM: I saw him last year at Prabal Gurung’s show.
MP: Yes, the last time we had worked together was actually 2020 February in Milan.
AM: Oh wow.
MP: We did Pucci together. The town shut down and so we were joking about that backstage. I was like, man, glad everyone made it out of Milan.
So doing the men was super fun that I mean that's certainly you know a personality statement for men now too. What else can I tell you with the chrome? I mean I think everything's just going super iridescent rainbow glitter magic, that's what I like to call it, but some people also call it Chrome.
AM: I like glitter magic better.
MP: Unicorns, sprinkles, prancing, rainbows across your nails. That's how I would sell it, but other people just call it chrome and save themselves some words!
IG @bruceglen
PHOTOGRAPHY CREDITS | PG 121 - 133 Paul Farkas | PG 144 - 139 Lam Lai |
Read the SEP ISSUE #105 of Athleisure Mag and see NYFW SS25 EDIT in mag.
